10 ways to winter-proof your skin
Natural fact
A large portion of the population has dry, scaly, tight skin, which really suffers in cold climates such as the British winter. This skin type tends to lack natural moisturising factors such as urea which help bind moisture to the skin.
'We call urea a ‘nature identical’ substance because it is present in the outer epidermis of the skin as a natural integral component,' says Dr Andrea Schoelerman, R&D of Eucerin.'
Considered one of the skin's essential natural moisturising factors (NMFs), it gets into the outer skin layers through sweat. For people with dry skin, the concentration of urea in the skin drops by 50%.
For patients with flaky skin or neurodermatitis, as well as mature skin, the loss is even more pronounced. To maximise urea levels, try Eucerin Dry Skin Replenishing Face Cream with 5% Urea, £10.35.
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Love to layer
The main benefit of layering your skincare is that parched winter skin will be infused with extra hydration. A serum is able to penetrate to the deeper layers of the skin and hydrate cells in the lower layers. When these cells come to the surface they are hydrated and healthy, resulting in a more radiant complexion.
Bao-Tam Phan, pharmacist at Avène, says: 'Just as we layer our clothes to protect against the elements, the same should apply to our winter skincare regime. Apply a serum beneath your daily moisturiser to give dull winter skin a boost of hydration.'
Eau Thermale Avène Soothing Hydrating Serum, £17 (www.avene.co.uk) has a lipsome-encapsulated form, which diffuses a continuous stream of hydration throughout the day to soothe and smooth the skin.
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Check it out
Certain ingredients are vital in winter to help hydrate and protect the skin, so make sure you check the packaging. 'Glycerine is used in products for dry skin because it has excellent humectant properties. This means that after it is applied to the skin it draws water from the deeper layers of the skin to the top layer, which results in hydration,' says dermatologist Dr Sue Mayou.
'Glycerine is one of the most effective humectants to hydrate the top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, and is used in products because it helps protect the skin’s moisture barrier.' Try Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Deep Moisture Body Lotion, £4.99 for 250ml, which has been clinically proven to deliver active moisture up to 10 layers deep into the skin, thanks to its key ingredient glycerine.
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Red alert
Many fair skinned, English rose types suffer from rosy cheeks in winter, but what causes redness and how can we treat it? 'Moving from warm indoor environments to cold outdoor winds causes the blood capillaries to dilate and contract,' explains Sally Penfold from The International Dermal Institute.
'The capillary walls may eventually start to lose elasticity and the result is permanently dilated capillaries, increased redness and sensitivity.' Try and avoid extremes in temperature by turning down the heating a couple of degrees and treating skin with a product like Dermalogica Redness Relief SPF20, £32.50 (dermalogica.com/uk) which contains ingredients that work below the surface to interrupt inflammatory triggers which lead to sensitisation, while helping minimise discomfort. Dermalogica UltraCalming Cleanser, £25 is a good cleansing option for sensitive souls.
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In circulation
During winter, our circulation suffers due to a drop in temperature, and blood rushes to other parts of the body, with our skin being the last to benefit. Try a product such as Skin Belief Face Serum, £49.95 (skintopia.co.uk/01256 345607) which contains stimulating ingredients such as ginseng, along with antioxidant green tea which will further help to strengthen the skin’s support system. Comments Kim Lahiri, MD of Simple Essentials Skincare.
'Along with its stimulating benefits, Skin Belief serum is water-based and the formulation means it’s absorbed into the skin quicker for more intensive nutritional benefits. It can also be used with your other skincare products to intensify their effects.'
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Save our skin
External aggressors such as pollution and the weather can render skin dull and lifeless - not the best look for those seasonal Christmas parties. 'Thalgo’s Oxygen SOS Serum, £51 (thalgo.com) not only protects against external pollutants such as car fumes, but it also guards against internal pollutants such as central heating,' says Sarah Pettican, THALGO expert.
'The main ingredient, Complex 02 Protect, derived from an algae extract, acts like a shield for the skin protecting against the three main types of free radicals that are caused by pollutants and are harmful to skin. It is important that we protect skin from these free radicals as they can cause premature aging and as well as a grey and lifeless complexion.'
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See the light
Ditching your light lotion for a thicker cream isn’t necessarily the answer, as richer products don’t always hydrate more. Comments Bio-Oil skincare expert, Kirsty Mawhinney: 'When skin is feeling dehydrated, it can be tempting to reach for a richer moisturiser, which might not suit all skin types. By using an oil rather than a cream, you will have much more targeted hydration.'
Bio Oil, £8.95, contains the ingredient PurCellin Oil, which not only gives the product its non-greasy, dry oil feel, but it also acts like a VIP pass deep into the second layer of the skin where all the active ingredients really make a difference.
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Gentle touch
Sensitive skins have a particularly tough time during winter, as skin experiences greater variations in temperature, for example, coming into a warm house when it’s freezing outside. Comments Consultant Dermatologist Dr. Justine Hextall FRCP: 'When seasons change the needs of our skin changes also. Central heating can dry skin and cold, windy days often leave skin flushed and sensitive. It is therefore a time of year that skin needs extra care. #
'It is important to use gentle products on dry, sensitive skin; I recommend using a cleanser that is as close to your natural skin pH as possible to protect the skins’ natural barrier, which is even more important when exposed to harsher conditions.'
We like Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, £8.99, which will clean the skin without leaving it feeling dry or tight. You should also use a good moisturiser such as Cetaphil Moisturising Lotion, £8.99, for an extra boost.
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Rehydration rules
Any skin type can become dehydrated in winter – even oily and combination skins can suffer. Comments Louise Stewart, Founder of NakedHealth MediSpa, Wimbledon: 'In winter, skin can become very dehydrated from the wind, central heating and cold. I always recommend regular microdermabrasion sessions to remove the dead skin cells, which in turn allows products to deeply penetrate skin.
'You should never be without a hydrating B5 in your winter skin arsenal such as SkinCeuticals B5 Gel, £56 (nakedhealth.co.uk); containing Hyaluronic Acid it acts like a super sponge and can hold up to 1,000 times more moisture than its weight, binding moisture to the skin.' Alternatively, try Holland & Barrett Hyaluronic Acid 20mg supplements, £9.69 for 30 capsules, for an extra boost.
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Body beautiful
Just because you’re more covered up, doesn’t mean you should neglect the skin on your body in winter. 'Look at loading up your moisturiser as skin ultimately gets a little drier in the winter,' says Nichola Joss, Braun & Venus Beauty Therapist.
'A great way to instantly hydrate is to leave skin slightly damp once you’re out of the shower and quickly massage a body lotion into skin to trap water into upper layers.' If you suffer from scaly skin, exfoliate weekly and use a body brush with strong bristles daily.
'First use the brush on dry skin, then wet the skin and use an exfoliator, massaging off under the shower and finishing with a rich moisturiser,' says Nichola. Shaving is another great way to exfoliate - use a razor such as Venus Spa Breeze, £9.99, which has built-in shave gel bars for a nick free shave that also moisturises your skin.
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