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5 steps to flawless eye make-up
If you're over 25, you'll probably remember (try not to cringe when you do) a time when you happily hit the streets with at least three different bright colours splashed around your eyes. Thankfully that look - along with wedge-shaped shoulder pads, too-tight curly perms and Madonna-inspired crucifix necklaces - died with the 1980s
Today's eye make-up trends are radically different, ranging from a 'nude' look to a 'smoky' effect to a 'clean' style. But while the colours and textures of make-up may change, one thing always remains the same - the basic construction of the eye.
Darrell Redleaf, a celebrity beauty expert based in Hollywood, California, says the key to a modern look is following five simple but elemental steps of eye make-up preparation and application.
'Most women will always end up applying make-up in the style that was in fashion when they came of age,' he explains. 'So if you started wearing eye make-up in the 1980s, then yes, you'll favour the three-colour look that was popular then - a light colour on the lid, particularly the inner corner, a dark colour in the eye crease and then a highlighter on the brow bone. That's a completely out-dated style.'
Redleaf suggests women do a little self-evaluation in front of a mirror with their eye make-up on and then compare their look to what's in the most current magazines appropriate for their age group. Also, he says, pay attention to what other women around you are doing - if you see someone with a look you'd like to achieve, break down her application style so you can copy it.
The Five Basic Steps
- Start with a clean canvas
- Assess your eyebrows
- Figure out that eye shadow compact
- Curl those lashes
- Apply mascara the right way
When working on celebrity clients, Redleaf saves the eyes for last. Before putting on any make-up, he says, prep the skin first.
Start with a clean canvas
Wash your skin following your normal routine. If you've got the time, Redleaf suggests putting some cold compresses on the eyes for ten minutes to reduce puffiness. Cold tea bags are great because they contain caffeine (which tightens capillaries, reducing blood flow to the area), or anything cold from the refrigerator (cucumber slices or an ice compress). There are also creams to reduce puffiness.
Once you've cleaned and prepped the skin, apply a very light moisturiser around the eye. Even oily complexions need this, Redleaf says, because the eye area has almost no oil glands. If the moisturiser seems too heavy for the delicate skin around the eye, blot it gently with a tissue. Never use a hand or body lotion. 'They're too greasy, for one, and also aren't meant for that, so you can tear-up if they get into your eye,' Redleaf warns. Let that set while you apply foundation and/or concealer to the rest of your face.
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