Anti-ageing products: the bare facts

Which? concluded that 'some of the claims made for the ingredients of anti-ageing creams can be substantiated but, with the low concentrations used in the creams, they are unlikely to do more than moisturise your skin.'

'There is no miracle ingredient that will take years off your appearance,' says Gisele Mir, a cosmetic scientist and founder of the holistic skincare range Mir. 'The only miracle is that the cosmetics industry has managed to persuade us otherwise for so long. In my opinion you can harm your skin by using anti-ageing products. I believe many of these products accelerate ageing rather than prevent it.

'Retinoids irritate the skin, so there may be dry and flaky skin, and sometimes itching, soreness, redness and a tight feeling. Some specialists think retinoids work simply because they irritate the skin, aggravating normal skin repair that will smooth wrinkles.

'AHAs cause irritation, which may make the skin swell slightly, padding out fine lines. AHAs also induce a peel, giving a smoother surface but making the skin susceptible to UV damage.'

'We have absolutely no idea what the long-term effect of using these substances will be,' says Mir. 'The incidence of skin sensitivity has significantly increased in recent years and I believe the cosmetics industry is partly responsible. Some anti-ageing products contain vitamins, but in my opinion these have little or no value. Ensuring your diet contains the right balance of minerals and vitamins will benefit your body as a whole.'

Whoever you decide to believe, one thing is for sure. A balanced diet, staying out of the sun and avoiding smoky places is just as important as splashing out on expensive lotions and potions.