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Controversial chemicals
Are those unpronounceable ingredients listed on beauty products detrimental to your health? We take a look at the evidence and highlight some non-toxic ranges
A recent survey revealed the scale of concern about the chemicals in everyday cosmetics and toiletries. The poll, carried out for Neal's Yard Remedies in response to the Channel 4 programme Beauty Addicts: How Toxic are You?, reveals major consumer confusion over cosmetics and skincare labelling and showed that 99 per cent of consumers want clearer information.
Hardly surprising, given that the average woman uses 12 beauty products every day and applies over 175 chemicals to her body. Most products contain a long list of ingredients, many with unpronounceable names and no explanation of why they are present.
'The regulators require that all ingredients are listed according to their INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names,' says A'Kin's Simon Golding.
'Even the INCI names for natural ingredients often look scary, which makes understanding the average ingredient list similar to a foreign language. Most natural brands, including A'kin, now list the common name in brackets alongside the INCI name.'
To help you decode the information, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) will in April launch www.thefactsabout.co.uk to help visitors find out about the science behind their products and access an ingredient glossary. The site will also provide rapid response to issues in the media likely to cause concern to consumers.
With the seal of approval from the EU, technically all beauty products are safe, but there is an undeniable and controversial link between the presence of these chemicals and allergies, skin sensitivities and even cancer.
It was once thought that cosmetics did not penetrate the skin, and thus manufacturers were not regulated. However, it is now known that the skin absorbs products which are put on it. Ingredients penetrate and carry the active ingredients to deeper layers of the skin, and some chemicals can be toxic to the liver, brain and kidneys.
In addition, cosmetic products are often formulated to last a number of years, and therefore contain a large amount of preservatives. So what ingredients are the so-called 'baddies' we might choose to avoid?
Propylene glycol
This is a wetting agent and solvent used in make-up, hair products, deodorants, aftershave and toothpaste. It's also the main ingredient in anti-freeze and brake fluid and has, unsurprisingly, been known to cause allergic reactions.
Sodium lauryl/laureth sulphate
This harsh ingredient is found in toothpastes and shampoos, not to mention just about every personal cleansing product. In concentrations of only 2-5 per cent it can cause skin irritation and dermatitis, and has been reported to cause eye irritations, skin rashes, dandruff and allergic reactions. For SLS-free haircare, try Alterna (www.4alterna.com) and Daniel Galvin Junior (www.danielgalvinjnr.co.uk).
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is found in bubble bath, shampoos, moisturising lotions and many cosmetics. However this powerful chemical is a known carcinogen and a poisonous toxic substance. It readily penetrates the skin and can cause serious future health concerns.
Parabens
There are concerns that parabens, a preservative, may disturb hormones and that they have been found in breast cancer tissue. Much of the reported evidence linking parabens deodorants to breast cancer was unfounded (deodorants don't usually contain parabens as they tend to be preserved with alcohol). In the beauty world however, parabens has been extensively reassessed and found to be safe. For parabens-free beauty, try Trilogy (exclusive to www.beautique.com) and INA (stockist listed below).
Mineral oil
Mineral oil is used in many body lotions (baby oil is 100 per cent mineral oil) and coats the skin like a plastic wrap, so it can't breathe or release toxins. And allowing toxins to accumulate can result in premature skin ageing, acne and other skin disorders.
Petrolatum (petroleum jelly)
This is a cheap, heavy mineral oil jelly. It can be allergenic, does not absorb well and may clog pores. It smothers skin so it cannot breathe naturally and may also cause skin chapping and photosensitivity.
The ranges
Organic Pharmacy (www.theorganicpharmacy.com)
The Organic Pharmacy is dedicated to health and beauty using organic products and treatments and aims to offer the best products, advice and treatments free from all the toxic ingredients commonly found in cosmetics and health products. They are fully registered with The Royal Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain.
Ren (www.renskincare.com)
REN specialises in 'clean' products to help achieve and maintain healthy skin. Products are formulated with cutting edge, clinically proven bio-actives while avoiding skin-unfriendly ingredients and irritants such as synthetic fragrance, propylene glycol, petrochemicals, sulfate detergents, synthetic colours, animal ingredients and parabens.
Nude (www.nudeskincare.com)
Nude is free from the chemicals you would rather your body didn't absorb - parabens, sulphates, PEGs, propylene glycol, TEA, DEA, mineral oil, silicones and potential carcinogens. Wherever possible, organic ingredients are used, and supplements are also available to support the skincare products.
Face Boutique (www.faceboutique.com)
Face boutique have developed a range of skincare products for younger consumers using skin-friendly ingredients in place of potentially irritating or harmful chemicals such as parabens or petrochemicals. Face boutique takes a simple approach to controversial ingredients. If there is any doubt, they are left out.
Inika (www.inikacosmetics.co.uk)
Inika pure and natural mineral cosmetics are made with crushed minerals from the earth and many are 100 per cent certified organic. They guarantee not to use potentially harmful chemicals, toxins, talc, parabens or GM ingredients.
Bare Escentuals (www.bareescentuals.com)
Bare Escentuals is the No.1 mineral make-up brand, and dedicated to the pursuit of improving skin. The foundation, bareMinerals®, is composed of 100 per cent pure bareMinerals with no additives, preservatives, fillers, binders or irritants. According to the company, its make-up is 'so pure you can sleep in it.'
Ina (available at Space NK: www.spacenk.com or call 020 8740 2085)
This pioneering range offers a naturally balanced approach to skincare, and has been formulated around white gold crystal salt, plus other premium ingredients that are free from irritating petrochemicals, parabens and synthetic solvents.
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