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AHAs and vitamin C products

The distinctions between alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin C can be confusing because both make very similar claims. In reality, however, they are very different, and while each serves a unique purpose, there is no guarantee that either of them will actually have any effect on your skin.

Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs as they're commonly known, are found in everything from cleansers to night creams. Derived from various sources like sugar cane, milk and fruits, these acids retexturise skin by gently exfoliating the dry, dead outermost layers of skin while moisturising the newly revealed layers. AHAs are thought to be beneficial to complexions that have started to look dull, dry or flaky because it's believed they help give skin a new 'glow'. However, cynics claim that the exfoliation achieved by AHAs can also be effected by a quick scrub of the face with a flannel.

While the term AHA is widely used, there are actually various types of acids designed to achieve different results:

• Glycolic acid is the most common type of acid used in skincare. Derived from the sugar cane plant, it is used primarily in chemical peels and serums because it has the strongest exfoliation properties.
• Lactic acid, which comes from sour milk, has intense hydrating properties and is commonly found in moisturisers. Legend says that Cleopatra took advantage of lactic acid's benefits by regularly indulging in sour milk baths.

• Salicylic acid is actually not an AHA. In fact, this acid (derived from willow bark) is considered a beta hydroxy acid because it works deeper in the skin to unclog pores and reduce fine lines. This acid is a great option for oily- and acne-prone skin.

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