The history of chicken soup

My mother still remains faithful to her recipe, but she now substitutes a couple of chicken legs and thighs instead of a whole chicken. She also adds chunks of a large parsnip for sweetness alongside the standard whole onions, sliced carrots and celery, soft ripe tomatoes and a bunch of parsley. Mum also likes to add a couple of tablespoons of protein-rich pearl barley at the end to further boost its nourishment.

Chicken soup is well-known for its healthy properties. At the University of Nebraska Medical Center in America, researchers found that chicken soup (even when diluted with water) has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe cold-ridden stuffy noses and sore throats. Beyond being rich in protein and vegetables, it’s widely believed that chicken soup acts as a placebo because it is generally prepared as a type of comfort food that warms one’s insides. But you don’t have to be Jewish to make chicken soup.

Ken Hom, one of the world’s greatest authorities on Chinese cookery, warmly remembers the delicious version his mum used to make in A Memoir of Recipes: Easy Family Dishes (BBC Publications; £17.99). Her recipe suggests boiling uncooked chicken bones from the feet or wings along with pieces of meat from the wings, thighs and drumsticks. Complement this stock with fresh ginger, spring onions and whole, unpeeled crushed garlic (with the skins on). Simmer the stock very slowly with salt and pepper for up to four hours, skimming off the fat as it appears. Then, add de-seeded cubes of cucumber seasoned with soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil and a little sugar.

The Polish like to add ground almonds to their soup for richness whilst the French include some bay leaves and a sprig of thyme for a more fragrant, herby finish. Even Michelin-starred chef Pierre Koffman of La Tante Claire restaurant in London recommends a variation on chicken soup from his beloved grandmother in his autobiographical cookbook Memories of Gascony (Mitchell Beazley, £12.99). It involves frying chicken necks, wings and gizzards in duck fat, then sweating carrots and onions in the same mixture. Finally, dry white wine, garlic, bouquet garni and macaroni are added, and the soup is simmered for half an hour.