Fish - a guide to eating it with a clear conscience

Ones to avoid

Whitebait - although delicious, whitebait are the young of several different species of fish, including herrings and sprats. By eating them in their immature form, we prevent them from breeding and spawning young of their own. This has a huge impact on the populations of these fish, with fewer and fewer reaching maturity and stocks declining. Avoid eating all types of young fish.

Cod - unless MSC-certified or organically farmed. Although still plentiful on supermarket shelves, cod is seriously endangered with populations in the North Sea reduced by over 90 per cent since the 1960s. Substitute pollack, pouting or coley in recipes for this, to give the dwindling numbers a chance to recover.

Bluefin tuna - while many of us seek out tins of tuna labelled 'dolphin-friendly', we're in danger of missing the point. All three species of Bluefin tuna are already critically endangered, so should not be eaten. Albacore and skipjack tuna still have healthy populations, so choose these instead.

Skate and rays - most of the skate we buy is in fact ray, but many skates and rays are critically endangered. Because of the way they are sold - just the wings with the skin removed - it's impossible to tell which species you're buying. Avoid eating them.

Wild salmon - we may be familiar with the remarkable life story of the salmon, how it returns from its epic journey from freshwater stream to open sea, then back to the very river in which it was spawned, the biggest threat this species faces is humans. Substitute organically farmed salmon instead.

What to eat

Pollack - from the same family as cod, this fish is usually overlooked. Its numbers are healthy, so use it as an alternative to its more popular sibling.

Mackerel - packed full of health-giving omega oils, mackerel is a great food fish. Its population is thriving, so it's a good fish to eat.

Grey mullet - although under-appreciated, grey mullet makes surprisingly good eating. It's also a good source of iodine, the lack of which is linked to academic underachievement.

Gurnard - fast becoming a restaurant favourite, gurnard is a meaty fish, that holds its shape well when cooked. Add it to fish soups and stews as an alternative to monkfish.

Coley - another member of the cod family, but one that has fallen from food favour. Its slightly grey flesh may put customers off, but once cooked, its flesh turns white and succulent. Use as a substitute for cod.

Sprats - full of healthy omega oils, sprats are plentiful and good to eat.

Fish recipes

Pollack with paprika chips
Potato salad with grilled mackerel and horseradish
Mackerel with 'Bois Boudran' sauce
Smoked mackerel pate

Find out more

The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) keeps up-to-date lists of which fish are good to eat at www.msc.org/cook-eat-enjoy/fish-to-eat.

For more information about the welfare of our seas and declining fish stocks, go to www.fishonline.org. They also have lists of which fish to eat and which to avoid.

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