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Morning-after meals

by Julia Watson
continued from page 1
  • Fry-up. Serious carousers tend towards quantities of grease; a solid fry-up to still the body’s jitters. There is medical support for this: grease coats the acid in the stomach like a blanket starving a fire of oxygen, while carbohydrates hack at the alcohol. Working men's cafés across Britain are filled with glassy-eyed revellers hunched over breakfast plates of eggs, bacon, sausages, tomatoes, beans, mushrooms and fried bread. Diners off West Hollywood Boulevard are still the silent early morning meeting ground of impecunious scriptwriters who have been at the keyboard and bottle all night, bent over restorative plates of hash browns and eggs-over-easy.
  • Hot ’n’ spicy. Others, for reasons unknown, swear by chilli and spice. Chicken soup also has its advocates. The great food writer MFK Fisher suggests Gazpacho is ‘one of the world’s best breakfasts for unfortunates who are badly hung over’, while a good strong Bloody Mary combines hair-of-the-dog and spice – surely the best combination of all.

    Gazpacho
    This is best made the night before so the flavours have a chance to mingle together. However, if you are not that organised, or don’t always plan your big nights out in advance, just give it as long as you can. You can always go back to bed while you wait.

    Serves 4

    1 generous mixed handful chives, chervil, parsley, basil, marjoram (use any or all, but make sure they’re fresh)
    1 garlic clove
    1 red pepper
    2 peeled and seeded tomatoes
    3 tbsp olive oil
    juice of 1 lemon
    1 mild onion, sliced paper-thin
    225g diced cucumber
    salt and pepper
    25g fresh breadcrumbs

    1. Chop the herbs and mash thoroughly with the garlic, red pepper, and tomatoes, adding the oil very slowly, and then the lemon juice.
    2. Add about 3 glasses cold water (or a good meat or fish stock) or as much as you wish.
    3. Add the onion and the cucumber, season, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, then store in the fridge for 4 hours, or as long as possible, before serving.

      Adapted from MFK Fisher, How To Cook A Wolf (Faber & Faber, 1963)



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