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French leave: buying wines from across the channel

by Alice King
continued from page 1
Taste before you buy
This is not to say that there aren’t any decent wines to be found in French supermarkets – just that you have to be more careful when choosing. Whenever possible, try to taste the wine before you buy. Promotional lines may be available for tasting. Or, you can buy a few bottles and try them with a picnic before you decide to invest in a case or two. The wine warehouses are a mixed bag, too. Often, they buy up wines from bankrupt companies, as well as unwanted, tired old stock. These wines can be great value – or they can be undrinkable. Recently, while wandering around a warehouse in Calais, I came across some 1993 Muscadet which, judging by its yellowy oxidised colour, would have been completely unpalatable. It occurred to me that at garden parties across England this summer there could be a lot of wrinkled-up noses and yelps of disgust when this wine is served. So, a word of warning: when buying white, always look for the most recent vintages – the wines will be fresher.

Style guide
Few of the French supermarkets or wine warehouses issue stock lists as the wines are constantly changing. So, rather than recommend specific wines, which will be on the shelf one minute and have disappeared the next, I’ve suggested some styles to look out for.

Go red

  • You can’t go wrong with Australian reds as the quality of wine-making is so high. Opt for the blackcurrant-like Cabernet or the spicy Shiraz grape.
  • Be prepared to experiment with some lesser-known French reds. The quality of wines from the south, Vin de Pays d’Oc, is impressive. These wines are a safer bet then Bordeaux or Burgundy from lesser-known chateaux.


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