How to cook a whole salmon

• First remove the fins. Carefully pull the skin from the top half of the salmon just below the gills and down to the tail.
• Using a long, thin knife or palette knife loosen the meat from the bone, separate it from the head and tail and remove the fillet, turning it over onto a serving plate with the skinned side down. (You may have to do this one half of the fillet at a time, depending on the size of the fish.)
• Remove any bones.
• Pull the backbone away from the remaining fillet and remove any remaining bones. Lift the bottom fillet and place on top of the other one, skin side up, and matching head and tail ends.
• Pull the skin off the top. Replace the head and tail.
• Decorate the salmon using sliced lemon and cucumber wedges, watercress, sprigs of dill or other appropriate herbs. You can also use thin strips of cucumber peel to create a herringbone effect along the top of the fish.
• Bunch the watercress between the head and neck to hide the join and give your masterpiece a 'collar'. Remember, simple decoration is best. You want to show off your whole cooked salmon, not hide it with garnishes. The beauty of serving a whole, dressed salmon is that it is made entirely in advance with no last-minute flurry of preparation.

Serving suggestions

• Herb Mayonnaise. One of the best herbs for salmon is tarragon. Chop a large bunch of fresh leaves - you'll need about 4 tbsp for 300ml mayonnaise - and pour over about 1 tbsp boiling water. This helps release more herb flavour. Mix into the mayonnaise along with the juice of half a lemon, salt and pepper. Dill and basil also work well for this.
• Make a Salsa Verde by puréeing a large bunch of flat-leaf parsley leaves, a large handful of basil and mint leaves, 2 cloves garlic, 1 tbsp Dijon mustard, about 6 rinsed anchovies, juice of 1 lemon and 5 or 6 tbsp olive oil to bind the mixture. This makes a fresh and colourful accompaniment.
• Serve with a Chunky Salsa of deseeded, finely chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, lime juice and lots of freshly chopped dill or coriander. Season with salt and pepper and allow the flavours to infuse for an hour before serving.
• Go tropical with a diced Fruit Salad of mango, papaya, pineapple, and spring onions. The mellow acidity of the fruit goes surprisingly well with the rich salmon.