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Oysters not to die for
Sudi Pigott gives the low-down on this most tantalising and troublesome of molluscs
Oysters have always been linked with love - according to myth, when Aphrodite, Greek goddess of love, sprang forth from the sea on an oyster shell and gave birth to Eros, the word 'aphrodisiac' was born. Roman emperors paid for them by their weight in gold, and legendary lover Casanova reputedly devoured four dozen every morning in the bath with his lady of the moment.
Today oysters are considered a great luxury. Strange to think, then, that in Dickens' time, oysters and poverty went hand in hand, and were guzzled in a vulgar pickle of throat-burning malt vinegar. It was the greedy rush to supply urban demand, which almost emptied the oyster beds and made them a rare and, consequently, more desirable commodity.
There may be many reasons for the supposed romantic properties of this most slippery of bivalves. Oysters are full of zinc, which modern medical research has linked with improving male potency - it is said to increase sperm and testosterone production. More controversially, the shape of an oyster has been likened to the shape of certain female private parts - this may or may not entice you to eat them. Romance aside, oysters are a pretty healthy option for everyone - they're a valuable source of other minerals, such as calcium and copper, and are also rich in iodine and low in cholesterol.
How to eat them
It was the legendary Auguste Escoffier, chef at the Savoy at the turn of the 20th century, who first introduced the custom of serving oysters on crushed ice as self-contained little packages with their own exquisite salty juice. In Britain, a crustacean altar loaded with oysters has now become a design and culinary signature of most of Sir Terence Conran's restaurants. My favourite and, arguably, the most glamorous remains the Oyster Bar in the beautiful tiled courtyard outside Sir Terence's flagship London restaurant Bibendum. This is also handy for a spot of retail therapy at the adjoining Conran Shop.
- Raw oysters are best served on crushed ice and seaweed, with fresh lemon juice, Tobasco or chilli sauce, or a shallot and red wine vinegar dressing (mignonette). They should be eaten on the half shell, liquid and all. The liquid has an exquisite, salty taste and is not to be missed.
- Irish chef, Richard Corrigan, of London restaurant Lindsay House, likes to serve hot oysters with a salsify and chive emulsion, or baked with cucumber and soft herbs as a Valentine's dinner canapé.
- At Loch Fyne restaurants oysters are served either straight-up on ice, with hot sausage (a traditional accompaniment among oyster fishermen from Marennes) or baked in the shell with spinach and mornay sauce for a warming winter dish. Loch Fyne restaurants have now expanded from their Scottish base to several locations in England (see below for details).
- Rick Stein advises keeping cooked oyster recipe dishes dead simple and always using the less expensive Pacific rather than Native oysters. In his Seafood Lovers' Guide (BBC Books) he suggests grilling oysters still in their top shells with most of the liquor drained off, topped with a little double cream, freshly grated parmesan, a drizzle of melted butter and black pepper.
- The Irish prefer oysters with stout, while champagne is the natural accompaniment for a seduction meal. But the best partners are crisp, dry white French wines such as Muscadet-sur-Lie and Chablis or Italian wines such as Soave or Frascati.
- Don't feel intimidated about buying oysters to enjoy at home, but always shop at a good busy fishmonger. They must always be bought live - the shells must be closed and remain closed if lightly tapped, and they should be quite heavy as they are full of liquor. Oysters can be stored for a short time in ice or a damp cloth.
- A rule of thumb is to eat oysters only in months that have an 'r' in the name - that is, during cold weather, and when the sea is coldest. In summer, as the sea warms up, they may start breeding and can be milky, fat and soft.
- But beware. Any shrivelled up or blackish oyster with suspiciously little liquor should be rejected: an oyster in its prime should have a highly visible beard and a good light brown or greyish colour with a white muscle, a good clean flavour and be firm textured, yet juicy. And if an oyster tastes bad, spit it out.
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