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Gone fishing?

Our simple guide to speedy fish pies will leave you plenty of time to sit back and relax

In the past few years fish pies have achieved star status in the comfort food hall of fame. As well they should. Living on an island, we have some of the best and most accessible supplies of fish anywhere in the world. Whether you stick with old favourites like cod and haddock – and perhaps we should all think twice about cooking with these fish in view of their increasingly rare appearance in our seas – or try more adventurous combinations using smoked fish, salmon, monkfish or shellfish, a home-made fish pie never fails to please. Make sure the fish you use is fresh, firm-fleshed and will stay in good-size chunks; if it is too delicate, it will break up into small sludgy pieces, making fish-paste pie, which doesn’t have quite the same appeal.

Basic Fish Pie Filling
Serves 4

1 small onion, cut in half
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
6 black peppercorns
700g cod or haddock (or see variations below)
450ml full-fat milk
30g butter
30g plain flour
75ml single or double cream
2 tbsp freshly chopped parsley
salt and black pepper

Filling variations

1. Use 350g cod or haddock and 350g salmon fillets – salmon adds different flavour, colour and texture.
2. Use 500g fresh haddock and 200g undyed smoked haddock.
3. Use 350g monkfish tail, 200g cooked, frozen prawns and tinned mussels or clams for a mixed shellfish filling.
4. Add 200g frozen carrots, peas or corn (or combination) to bulk up the pie with vegetables.

Method

1. Stud the onion halves with the cloves and place with the bay leaf, peppercorns and fish in a large, deep pan and simmer gently until the fish is just done – about 5–7 minutes. Remove the fish, strain off the cooking milk and reserve.
2. Remove any skin and bones from the fish and break into largish flakes. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and cook for 1 minute. Draw the pan off the heat and slowly add the fish-flavoured milk, stirring continuously. Place back on the heat, stir and bring slowly to the boil until thickened. Add the cream, parsley, salt and pepper. Now add the cooked fish, prawns and tinned shellfish, if using. Pour into an ovenproof dish.

Top toppings

• Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5.
• Make a standard mash using 1kg potatoes (Maris Piper, Desiree or King Edwards are good for this), 150ml milk and 30g butter. Season with salt and pepper and spread over the fish mixture. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until it is hot and bubbling.
• Spread a small handful of grated Cheddar cheese over the top of the potatoes for extra flavour and richness.
• Take a sheet of filo pastry and brush with butter or oil. Lay another sheet on top then cut into 15cm squares. Using the tips of your fingers, gently scrunch up the filo so it resembles a crumpled tissue. Place on top of the fish filling. Repeat, using as much filo as necessary to cover the dish. Bake 20-25 minutes or until the filling is hot and the pastry golden brown.
• Roll out a piece of shortcrust pastry (home-made or store bought) large enough to cover the dish. Wet the edges of the dish and lay the pastry on top of the filling, pressing gently to seal. Cut off the excess pastry and use to make decorations for the top (cut out leaves or little fishes). Brush the top with beaten egg and bake for 25-30 minutes.

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