Mash - savoury of the universe
Make your mash out of this world with our easy variations on a classic comfort dish
Mash is probably the most comforting of all comfort foods. Whether smooth and creamy, or rough and rugged, its appeal is instantaneous, its powers to soothe immeasurable. It's one of the first foods we learn to love, and one of the last we'd leave behind.
We usually think of the potato as the main player in the mash world, but there are endless variations and additions. All manner of root vegetables (parsnips, swede, celeriac, carrots, sweet potato, squash, pumpkin, even beetroot) can be called into play, either cooked and crushed on their own, or mixed with a basic potato mash, and stirred up with generous amounts of seasonings, spices, butter and cream.
There are two kinds of potatoes: 'waxy' and 'floury'. Waxy potatoes have less starch and more water, while floury ones are the opposite – more starch and less water. Each make wonderful, different styles of mash. Choose waxy potatoes like Desirie if you want to go creamy and smooth, or floury ones like King Edwards, Maris Piper, Marfona or Estima if light and fluffy takes your fancy.
How to cook
Roughly speaking, 900g potatoes should serve 4 people.
- Start by peeling the potatoes as thinly as possible (most of the goodness is just under the skin), and cut into medium-size chunks. Place in a pan.
- Pour just enough boiling water from the kettle to partially cover them – the tops of your potatoes should still be peeking out.
- Then, cover with a tight-fitting lid and boil gently until done, usually for about 15 to 20 minutes. Check to see if they're done by inserting a knife in the middle – they should be soft all the way through but not falling apart.
- Drain the water immediately and let the steam evaporate off. As with most vegetables, steaming instead of boiling helps retain more nutrients as well as flavour. If you are steaming potatoes, it will take a few minutes longer than boiling.
Get mashing
The method in your mashing is of vital importance. Some cooks say you should never use an electric whisk while others swear by it. At least everyone agrees you should never mash in a food processor or blender unless you want something akin to wallpaper paste. A potato ricer is a nifty gadget and makes smooth, lump-free mash, but you can't beat an old-fashioned hand held masher for quick and easy convenience.
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