An eater's guide to mushrooms

French Cream of Mushroom Soup
This method is slightly more time-consuming, but since mushrooms should never be overcooked, it is best to cook them separately before adding to the soup.

Ingredients:
450g closed cap mushrooms
75g butter
2 shallots or 1 small onion, finely chopped
25g flour
1.5 litres chicken or vegetable stock
2 sprigs fresh parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
juice of half a lemon
150ml double or whipping cream
salt and black pepper

Directions:
1. Cut the stems from the mushrooms, chop and set aside. Slice the caps.

2. Heat half of the butter in a large saucepan and gently fry the shallots or onion until soft but not coloured ? about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook for two minutes. Slowly stir in the stock, add the mushroom stems and herbs and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat the rest of the butter in a large frying pan and saute the sliced mushroom caps, covered for 5 minutes, until soft. Add the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

4. Strain the soup stock, pressing through the sieve with a wooden spoon, and discard the stems and herbs. Return to the saucepan and add the cooked mushrooms, along with their juices. Add the cream and heat gently for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt, pepper or lemon juice, as required.

Note: if you prefer a smooth soup, liquidise after adding the mushrooms, then stir in the cream and seasoning.