Farmers' markets: who's fiddling the system?

It seems that some people have got confused as to what farmers' markets are for. Selling asparagus in January contradicts the whole concept of farmers' markets, which are meant to sell their own local produce, and that means it will invariably be seasonal.

Kerry Rankine, who organises the Stoke Newington Farmers' market in London - the UK's only 100 per cent organic market, is aware that some traders at other markets sell produce from wholesalers. She said: 'I have heard plums were being sold in a market in June. People are still not that well informed, but it's getting much better, we have a lot of regulars who have developed their own relationship with the producers.'

She says that buying in goods may seem trivial to the stallholders involved, but farmers' markets have done so much to make people think about where their food comes from, it would be terrible to undo this education.

She added: 'If people then start thinking there are apples in May, it gets them confused. Also, if people start to distrust farmers' markets that will have a devastating effect on small and medium-sized farmers whose livelihoods often depend on these markets. The success of the Saturday trade at our market has even helped our producers to buy more land.'

Obviously, most traders at farmers' markets are all above board. Rita Exner, of FARMA (the National Farmers' Retail & Markets Association), said: 'It's terrible that so many farmers go to the trouble of harvesting a crop the day before so there is still moisture on the produce when it's on the stall, while a few (and it is just a few) are fiddling the system. In the end, the customer will be able to detect a good quality in the product.'

The best way to boycott these rogue traders is to make sure you don't buy from a stall selling produce that is clearly out of season. So swot up on your seasonal knowledge by going to www.eattheseasons.co.uk.

It's also a good idea to visit a farmers' market that is certified by FARMA if you live near one. Certification guarantees that all the products at the market are sold and produced, grown or reared by the farmers from the local area (usually within 30 miles). Every market that is certified should have a board on display saying they are, and you can also check by going to www.farmersmarkets.co.uk.

The good news is that now over half of the farmers' markets in the UK are certified, and more are applying each day, so the chances are that your local market is doing a sterling job both for the local farming community, and for your palates.

• www.eattheseasons.co.uk
• www.farmersmarkets.co.uk
• www.btinternet.com/~grow.communities/farmers-market.htm
• www.farma.org.uk