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Asparagus: king of spring

’Tis the season to eat asparagus, the finest green shoot of spring. Terry Farris offers some top tips

It’s a welcome sign of spring when the first of the season’s asparagus begins to appear in the greengrocers and supermarkets. Asparagus comes from the lily family and can be traced back to the Romans in the 1st century AD. It’s a good source of folate (folic acid) and vitamin A as well as iron and vitamins B and C. It is also known as a natural remedy: it can help relieve indigestion and act as a mild laxative and sedative. It comes canned and frozen, but as with most vegetables, is much better fresh. Look for the first crop of British asparagus in late April– it will be gone by the end of July, so enjoy it while it lasts.

Science aside, when we think of asparagus we think of hollandaise sauce and, unfortunately, high prices. The reason this strange, green vegetable is so expensive is the way it has to be grown. From sowing, a plant will take three years to begin to produce marketable spears. Methods of cultivation and results vary around the world. On the continent, white asparagus is the most popular type. This is achieved by piling up the earth around the spears as they grow, to prevent exposure to sunlight. In Britain and North America, the green varieties are preferred (and are said to have more flavour), and they come in dark and light shades; there is even a purple variety called Viola. Sprue, often sold in market stalls at a more affordable price, is a form of wild asparagus, Asparagus acutifolius, and is good for making soup.

When choosing asparagus, look for firm, green spears with tight, crisp tips. (Very large stalks tend to come from older plants and can be tough.) And since asparagus is grown in sandy soil, it should be washed to remove any grit before cooking. If the ends are hard and cracked, cut them away. Tough stalks with thick skin will benefit from peeling with a vegetable peeler, a couple of inches (6 or so centimetres) up the stem.

Cooking asparagus. Asparagus is usually boiled or steamed, but can be grilled or roasted for a different, slightly nutty flavour. There is a special asparagus pan (useful but not necessary) that allows the spears to stand upright in boiling water, while the steam gently cooks the more delicate tips. Or you can simply submerge them in a large pan of boiling water, cover and cook anywhere from 3-6 minutes – this will depend on the size and freshness of the spears. (450g should be enough for 2 people.) You can also steam them, provided your steamer is large enough to accommodate the spears whole. This will take a few minutes longer than boiling. When just done, a sharp knife will glide easily through the stalks. Drain them carefully so as not to damage the tips. They should have a slight resistance when eaten, but not too crunchy. Asparagus is best served neither hot nor cold, but warm and eaten, traditionally, with the fingers.

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