Some like it hot

Crushed or flaked chilli is usually a form of cayenne and can be added to all sorts of dishes, even sprinkled on pizza. Use sparingly, as most packets of flaked chilli contain dried seeds and ribs – a teaspoon of chilli flakes is about the same as three medium-sized fresh chillies.

Chilli powder can be made from any number of varieties of chillies, depending on where you buy it. The heat can also vary, so test it first if you’re not sure. It should be added to the dish early on as it takes time for the flavour and heat to develop. Adding at the end of cooking or as a garnish sprinkled on top will result in a raw, bitter taste.

Dried chillies, whether whole or ground, should be bright in colour and have a sweet, caramelised flavour. Be sure your dried chillies are fresh and haven’t been on the shelf too long, otherwise they lose their flavour (but not their heat).

Chilli A-Z
There are more and more different chilli varieties turning up in the shops and supermarkets all the time, both in fresh and dried form. These little fruits are widely adaptable in all sorts of dishes (even sweet recipes) and can add depths of flavour as well as heat. Here are some of the more common chillies available in the UK:

Anaheim is a Californian variety, usually long and green and quite mild in flavour; thick enough and mild enough for roasting and stuffing.

Bird's Eye. See Thai

Cayenne is most commonly dried, ground and used in recipes as a very hot spice. The peppers can grow in excess of 30cm.

Cherry. See Kashmiri

Chipotles are smoked and dried jalapeños; subsequently, they have a warm, nutty flavour and work well with chocolate in molé sauce.

Habañeros were, until recently, the hottest of all chillis. A relative of the Scotch bonnet, the habañero is small but fat, with a delicious sweet taste – although the penetrating heat can often overwhelm the tastebuds. Good (if used sparingly) in salsa and chutneys.

Over the page: More chillies and some damn hot recipes