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Grecian urge: real Greek cooking
Summer means holidays on the Med, and time to try some exotic food. But if your memories of Greek cooking are less than enticing, it’s time to take another look
Too often when we think of Greek cuisine we think of the terrible tourist taverna: oily moussaka, rubbery cheese and unripe tomato masquerading as ‘Greek’ salad, washed down with unspeakably rough wine?
Our view of Greek food was not always so tainted. The very word ‘gastronomy’ actually derives from the earliest treatise on food ever produced – Gastronomia, written in Greek by Archestratus back in the 5th century BC. Brillat-Savarin, the legendary French gourmand of the early nineteenth century, recognised the Greeks’ essential role in defining culinary excellence. In his Physiologie du Goût he observed that ‘cooking was held in high esteem by the Athenians, as was natural in a race so elegant and eager for the new.’ Now, Athens-born chef, Theodore Kyriakou, has brought Greek cuisine into the 21st century by setting up The Real Greek in Hoxton, serving authentic, regional Greek cuisine to challenge our dated preconceptions.
Discover the Greek way of socialising
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Created: 30/05/2001 Updated: 10/08/2004
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