What’s in season: December

As an alternative, consider game and other poultry. Pheasant is at its best in December, and is a good buy. Try pot roasting it for maximum juiciness, or cook the breasts quickly, and use the legs for casseroles; or mince the meat and serve as miniature ‘cottage pies’.

On Boxing Day, a splendid standing rib of beef or a ham will have their fans. The latter is a good choice if you’re cooking for a sizeable number, and the delicious leftovers are much more versatile than turkey off-cuts for sandwiches, risottos, pasta sauces and soups.

And don’t forget the seafood: oysters and smoked salmon – not to mention caviar for those who can afford it – are holiday classics. What makes them so perfect for entertaining is that they need nothing doing to them. Look for smoked wild Scottish salmon, or smoked organic salmon for a real treat.

Over the page: Dessert ideas and Frances’ December menu