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What's in season: March
March is an awkward month for the cook, as there's nothing new on the home-grown produce shelves. But at least leeks and potatoes are plentiful, and both vie for the title of most versatile vegetable.
Leeks are good in early spring, and I like to use them, not only as vegetables to accompany poultry, meat and fish, but in soups, salads and tarts for first courses. You can also use them to make excellent purees and sauces for fish and grilled meat.
Together, leeks and potatoes make a classic soup, vichyssoise, traditionally served chilled - with a garnish of snipped chives and plenty of cream - but equally good hot.
Use the potato/vegetable combination as a base for other velvety soups. Try carrot and potato, spiced with a little curry paste, all cooked together with a little onion in some vegetable or chicken stock, or simply semi-skimmed milk. When cool, blend and reheat before serving with your chosen garnish.
Early imports
New season's artichokes from Italy, Cyprus and Egypt are making their first appearance on the shelves, together with the first of the tomatoes with taste from Sicily and the black volcanic soil of Tenerife and Fuerteventura. Fast on their heels will be new potatoes from around the Mediterranean, asparagus from the Murcia and Valencia provinces in Spain, and strawberries from Huelva in Andalucia.
I love to use these early spring vegetables in succulent casseroles. New potatoes, asparagus and prepared and quartered artichokes are wonderful together. Cook them in stock, white wine, water or cider, and serve warm as a first course with garlicky mayonnaise, or hot as an accompaniment to poultry, baked fish or even a Sunday roast lamb.
While I prefer to buy home-grown vegetables, I have to admit to buying Spanish asparagus. The reason is that, sadly, it often reaches us much fresher and in better condition than English asparagus in season.
Over the page: Eating artichokes
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