What’s in season: December

Citrus fruits from southern Europe are plentiful now, particularly those known as ‘easy peelers’, such as satsumas and clementines – the traditional stocking fillers. Look out, too, for chestnuts (for roasting) and hazelnuts, brazils, almonds for cracking to eat with figs and dates.

Finally, take a tip from the French: in Provence, les treize desserts (the 13 desserts) is a traditional Christmas sweet that includes all manner of dried fruit, nuts, nougat and baked goods.

To make something similar at home, choose a shallow, circular basket and line it with a piece of Provencal fabric – or use a large, decorative platter. Then simply fill it with a variety of sweetmeats such as nougat, halva (a confection of crushed sesame seeds and honey or syrup), honey-dipped figs, dates, crystallised fruit, moscatel raisins, dried apricots, and a selection of nuts, shelled or not. To this delicious mix, add home-made or shop-bought marzipan ‘petits fours’ and spice biscuits. Cut ginger cake into individual squares and wrap in colourful paper, and don’t forget to treat yourself to Elvas plums, the ‘sugar plums’ of legend.

December menu
While November’s menu offered an interesting British take on Thanksgiving, all or some of this month’s seasonal courses make a delicious substitute for your Christmas dinner. The tanginess and nuttiness of the soup is a real winter warmer that’s substantial without being filling, while the lightness of the pomegranate complements the delicate pheasant perfectly. And a mincemeat tart – enough for dinner tonight and tea tomorrow – is the definitive end to a December dinner.

Celery, Blue Cheese and Chestnut Soup
Pheasant Breasts with Pomegranate Sauce
Mincemeat and Marzipan Tart

Tom Bissell’s wine suggestions:
A small glass of cool, dry oloroso sherry is the perfect partner for the soup, its warmth and nuttiness matching that of the chestnuts.

The hint of fruitiness and acidity in the main course needs a wine with plenty of character, and I would look to Spain again, for a Ribero del Duero, or for something less exepensive, a wine from Navarra.

Spain is also home to some delectable dessert wines, of which Moscatel de Valencia is an ideal choice with the mincemeat and marzipan tart. This would also be very good with the Christmas pud.

What do you most look forward to in December? Share your thoughts with Frances and Tom Bissell on the All About Food & Drink message board.