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What to eat now

Olive's deputy food editor Janine Ratcliffe shops for the very best March has to offer in farmers' markets and supermarkets

Reproduced from the March 07 issue of Olive magazine on sale now. Subscribe now and save 40%.

Recipes: Janine Ratcliffe
Photographs: Michael Paul

March is the start of a barren lull between the end of the winter root veg and the start of spring vegetables, known as the 'hungry gap'. Still around and good are chicory, green cabbages and leeks. Scottish, rope-grown mussels will be here until the end of the month, as will scallops.

Forced rhubarb is around but homegrown fruit is pretty scarce, so go for the zing of imported lemons, limes and oranges.

Mussels with garlic and herb breadcrumbs

45 minutes
EASY
This is lovely eaten with crusty bread as a starter but you could also serve them as canapes with drinks. Mussels are at their best in the colder months so look out for ones grown locally.

mussels 2 kg, cleaned
butter 50g, frozen and grated
fresh breadcrumbs 50g
garlic 1 clove, crushed
parsley a small bunch, chopped
lemon 1, cut into wedges to serve
crusty bread warmed, to serve

Make sure all the mussels are alive before you cook them ? if any are open, tap them on the work surface, if they don't close, throw them away.
Heat a large, wide pan, tip in the mussels with a splash of water, cover and cook until opened. Throw away any that won't open. Remove the top shell from each mussel and discard. Mix the butter, breadcrumbs, garlic and parsley. Put a layer of half mussel shells on a baking tray. Sprinkle breadcrumbs over each one then flash under a very hot grill until just golden. Serve with lemon and crusty bread. Serves 2

Purple sprouting broccoli with proscuitto and duck egg

30 minutes
EASY
Purple sprouting broccoli works really well with the punchy flavours of salty proscuitto and parmesan. Early season purple sprouting broccoli can be cooked whole but later stuff may need to have the stalk peeled.

proscuitto or Parma ham 8 slices
purple sprouting broccoli 500g
olive oil
balsamic vinegar
parmesan or Grana Padano a handful, grated
duck or hen's eggs 4, poached

Grill the proscuitto until crisp. Steam the broccoli until just tender, but still bright green ? test a stalk with the point of a knife. Divide between 4 shallow bowls and drizzle with a little olive oil and balsamic. Top the broccoli with pieces of crisp proscuitto and parmesan. Poach the duck eggs in a frying pan of simmering water for 3-4 minutes or until cooked to your liking (2-3 minutes for hen's eggs). Lift out, drain and add one to each bowl. Sprinkle with sea salt flakes and black pepper and serve. Serves 4

Duck eggs
Duck egg yolks are larger and richer and the whites more gelatinous than hen's eggs so they will create superior custards and meringues. Fry, poach or boil them (the large yolk is perfect for dipping) in exactly the same way as ordinary eggs but be careful not to overcook the whites as they can become a bit rubbery. Serve soft-boiled duck eggs with Maldon sea salt and purple sprouting broccoli for dipping; use the yolks for the richest creme brulee; fry smoked haddock in a little butter and top with a poached duck egg and some chopped chives. GO WITH cream, chives, bacon, smoked fish, broccoli.

Purple sprouting broccoli
A member of the cabbage family, purple sprouting broccoli has purple leaves and flower heads and a long stem, all of which are edible. The English season is in full swing in March and lasts until the end of April. Look for firm stems; any bending means it's past its best. Serve steamed and tossed with butter and parmesan; cook with chilli, garlic and olive oil and stir through pasta; bake in a gratin with cream, cheese and onions goes with chilli, garlic, cream, pasta, cheese.