What's in season: April

Just wipe and chop the mushrooms. Peel and finely chop one shallot per 250g mushrooms and cook in butter until soft and translucent. Add the mushrooms and cook on a high heat until they release all their liquid, which evaporates in the heat. Remove from the heat, and when cool, beat in a little more softened butter, pack in ramekins and refrigerate until required. If keeping them for more than two or three days, freeze them or cover with clarified butter.

This mixture, known as duxelles, makes a wonderful filling for fillets of Dover sole, which you then fold over, place in a buttered oven-proof dish and bake in the oven with a little white wine, seasoning, and some finely chopped tarragon or chervil.

We might have already seen the start of British Summer Time, but the weather is still cool enough for warming casseroles, and the dumplings are a rare treat. They are so easy to make that you will want to keep them in your repertoire, large ones for casseroles and small ones for dishes such as oxtail soup and, in season, game soups and casseroles. The main course recipe I have developed for April's menu is based on the traditional Exeter beef stew.

As far as planning the meal is concerned, the potted fish can be made a few days in advance. You can make the beef casserole the day before required, and reheat it with the dumplings 40 minutes before you want to serve it. The tea cream can be made a few hours in advance, or indeed, the day before, which makes this a menu for very easy entertaining.

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