What's in season: August

Dona Maria is a well-known label in Mexico, producing authentic Mexican products, which they refer to as Mex-Mex, not Tex-Mex, and they are beginning to find their way into the shops here. Not just the tortillas, salsas and refried beans; you will also find jars of pickled cactus, jalapenos and cuitlacoche. This last is a real delicacy, best described as a fungus or mushroom that grows symbiotically with sweetcorn. But when you think fungus, think truffle, not mould, for it is certainly as precious to Mexicans as black truffles are to the French, and used in all manner of refined dishes and as a garnish to others.

The company called Seasoned Pioneers also has some new spice mixes, including Tunisian Tabil, Caribbean BBQ Jerk Rub and Chinese Sichuan Salt, amongst many others. The deliciously fragrant Moroccan ras el hanout is not to be missed. They have an excellent website, stacks of recipes and their list of products to order online at www.seasonedpioneers.co.uk. A wide range is also stocked in 357 Sainsbury's stores as well as delicatessens and other specialist food outlets.

Heat warning!
How hot to make the chilli component of a recipe is a matter of personal taste. But do not assume you have the same tolerance for chilli as the writer of the recipe, especially if the writer comes from a culture where chilli is used daily. My advice is to taste as you go.

Chillies need to be treated with respect. If in doubt as to what kind of chilli you are using, assume it is a hot one until it proves otherwise. Remove all the seeds and veins, which are the hottest part of the plant. Do not touch eyes or mouth after you have touched a chilli, and thoroughly wash hands and utensils after use. Capsaicin, the essential oil in chilli, is very volatile and induces powerful burning sensations where it comes into contact with soft or broken tissue. However, do not let all that put you off experimenting with these colourful and explosive fruits, more and more varieties of which are available in greengrocers, specialist shops and supermarkets.