What's in season: February

Mussels
My absolute favourite for this month is mussels. They're such an amazingly delicious shellfish and yet so undervalued. They're also quick and easy to cook, and you need about a kilo each for a main, one-pot meal.

All you do is scrub the mussels under cold, running water, tug off the 'beard' or byssus and knock off any barnacles with the back of a knife. Rinse the mussels and discard any that remain open after this rough treatment - they are dead.

Put the mussels in a lidded saucepan with some finely chopped shallot, parsley, chives, some freshly ground pepper and a glass of white wine. Cover with a lid and cook on a high heat until the mussels are cooked - that is, when they all open, about 4 to 5 minutes. Holding the lid on firmly, shake the pan from time to time. Stir in a handful of soft breadcrumbs and a little butter and transfer to a large tureen, or serve them from the pot in which they were cooked.

The whole thing takes longer to write about than cook: from the time you put them on the heat to the time you tip them into a heated tureen, it should take no more than about 5 minutes.

Meat and game
Finally, the weather is still cold enough to enjoy some classic winter stews. Try oxtail, for example, or hare, which is really the only game left this month. Although it doesn't have a closed season like much other game, it's generally only sold in the winter months, between October and March.

Hare is always exceedingly good value as it's relatively meaty. You can usually buy the whole hare from a traditional butcher, who'll be happy to joint it for you. Use the hind legs and saddle for jugged or casseroled hare for four, or roast the saddle for two, and use what's left to make a delicious sauce to serve with pappardelle or other pasta. Use the forelegs and trimmings to make a richly flavoured stock.

Over the page: Frances' Chinese New Year menu