The truth about adult acne

Teenage acne sufferers used to console themselves with the thought that they would eventually grow out of their spots, however it appears to be on the increase among older women.

People with acne have an increased sensitivity in their sebaceous (oil-producing) glands to normal levels of the male hormone testosterone. The cells that line the hair follicle become sticky and, instead of being shed in the normal way, progressively block the duct so that sebum (oil) and dead skin cannot escape.

Bacteria proliferate around the blockages, causing inflammation. Follicles blocked with waste material discolour on exposure to air and become blackheads. When bacteria break down the trapped sebum, pus is created, forming whiteheads. Red blotches indicate more extensive inflammation.

Possible causes
It is not known why some people develop acne, although heredity may play a part. Equally, it is not clear why the incidence of late-onset acne is increasing. One of the main causes is thought to be stress, which increases the production of male hormones (androgens). Greater use of oral contraceptives , which contain progesterone, may also be a factor.

Hormone changes before menstruation and during pregnancy can cause a flare-up of acne, as can hot temperatures and high humidity. Diet plays no part. 'It is a myth that chocolate and fried foods make acne worse,' says Alison Dudley, chief executive of the Acne Support Group. 'However, a good balanced diet will improve your general wellbeing and this will be reflected in the condition of your skin.'

Another myth is that acne is caused by poor hygiene. If anything, sufferers tend to wash more frequently than those with clear skin in order to clear away excess oil. This may be a mistake as over-washing can dry out the skin and make the condition worse. The Acne Support Group advises using a pH balanced cleansing bar or facial wash twice a day. Washes aimed at oily skins can be over-harsh, but moisturisers for oily skins are beneficial as they provide hydration without extra oil. Keep make-up to a minimum. When you do use it, choose oil-free cosmetics and make sure you cleanse thoroughly before bed.