Marvellous Mallorca

Hands up who spent one of their first holidays on Mallorca, or Maj-orca as the Brits once knew it? I was one of those who headed off to the infamous resort of Magaluf with a teenage school friend but the initial thrill of being 'let loose' turned out to be more fun than the reality of what was a pretty grotty budget break.

But I've grown up quite a bit since then, and so has the Spanish island. While there are a couple of sun, sea, sangria and everything else resorts, all-day fry ups and bland hotels have made way for Michelin starred restaurants and stylish boutique, family and spa properties.

A stay in and around Palma, the island's elegant capital, certainly renewed my appetite for Mallorca. Often bypassed by sun seekers heading straight for the beaches, the elegant port city has emerged as a destination in its own right and a good choice of year-round flights makes it a perfect for a short break or longer holiday, whatever the season.

For a Palma-based stay the coolest address in town is Hotel Tres, close to the main sights and shops it's a perfect retreat for couples. Hiding behind the facade of a 16th century palace is a 41-room boutique hotel staffed by a friendly and knowledgeable young team.

Aside from the height of the ceilings and wooden beams, there's not much difference between rooms in the old and new buildings divided by a shady courtyard.

Bedrooms and bathrooms are bright with natty design features like an over-the-bed table that can be used for reading and snacking or rolled to the end as a work station. Large nude portraits grace the bed heads (although apparently it's only reserved Brits that comment on them when they are shown to their rooms!).

Climbing the wooden stairs to the top floor I discovered the hotel's literal high spot, the small but perfectly formed decked terrace with a plunge pool, sauna and fantastic view of Palma's landmark cathedral and surrounding cityscape.

Back down to earth it was time for something restorative in the quiet courtyard before a night on the town. While there are plenty of restaurants nearby serving the omnipresent tapas, Hotel Tres bucks the trend with an innovative light menu of tasty Asian and international inspired dishes that stand alone as a snack or add up to a complete meal.

Overlooked by a stately 100-year-old palm tree the courtyard is a great spot to relax with a cocktail or glass of wine from a list includes excellent fizz and Mallorcan wines by the glass.

If you prefer somewhere more historic to lay your head, family-run Hotel Dalt Murada is a 16th century manor house that's also very central. Personal heirlooms and sepia family photographs decorate large bedrooms sympathetically converted to retain the building's character.