The purple root we love to hate is enjoying a revival. It’s good for you, too – so much so that it’s also known as ‘the vitality plant’

Beetroot is back. It’s had a rough deal of late, but things are changing. The once humble root vegetable, condemned to a life doused in vinegar, is enjoying a revival in Britain’s fashionable restaurants. These days you’re more likely to enjoy beetroot freshly cooked in colourful, flamboyant salads, whizzed up in revitalising health juices, or served hot in a heart-warming mash, than spooned sadly from a pickling jar.

Derived from the maritime sea beet, beetroot was highly esteemed as far back as the Roman times. Now, chefs are again making the most of its sweet, slightly nutty flavour and glorious red-purple colour. Its health-giving properties are being recognised too. Rich in vitamins and minerals, particularly iron and magnesium, beetroot is known to herbalists as the ‘vitality plant’. It is traditionally used to help treat anaemia and conditions involving the blood and immune system, and to relieve chronic illnesses such as ME. There are also reports that it’s been used effectively in Eastern Europe as part of the treatment of cancer and, in particular, leukaemia.

For flavour, you can’t beat freshly cooked beetroot. Although pre-cooked beetroot is widely available and can be a great timesaver, it’s better to buy it raw and cook it yourself. Look out for the familiar red-purple, globe-shaped root in your local greengrocer or supermarket. It comes in white and golden varieties too, but these are harder to find – unless you grow your own.

Generally, the younger and smaller the globes, the sweeter and more delicate the flavour (hence the sweetness of ‘baby beets’). Ideally, look for those that still have their stalks, fresh green leaves, and undamaged skin –important to stop the red juices ‘bleeding’ in cooking. Use as fresh as possible, but if need be, store for up to two weeks in the fridge. Beet ‘greens’ are delicious too. Treat them as you would spinach…

• Always cook beetroot whole. Never top and tail, chop or peel before cooking. This prevents the red dye from ‘leeching’ out, which not only stains, it impairs flavour. Trim off the stalks at least an inch above the beetroot, and wash gently in cold water without breaking the skin.
• Bake, boil or microwave. Baking is probably best for flavour: wrap individually in foil and bake in a slow oven (150C/300F/gas mark 2) for 1–3 hours, depending on size. Boiling may still take up to an hour or more, again depending on size. The microwave is speediest and the most practical when you only have a few to cook. Place whole in a bowl with 2 tbsp water, cover and microwave for around 8–10 minutes, turning halfway through. The beetroot are generally done when the skin scrapes easily away.
• Serve hot or cold… Beetroot is incredibly versatile. It adds colour and flavour to salads and goes particularly well with cooked apple, fresh orange, horseradish or chopped mint. In her book Eat Your Greens Sophie Grigson cites her favourite as a simple Beetroot and Walnut Salad: cubed or sliced beetroot tossed with toasted walnuts, vinaigrette, and sprinkled with chopped parsley or chives. For a stunning colourful mash, combine equal amounts of puréed or grated cooked beetroot with floury mashed potatoes, a generous dollop of butter, soured cream and seasoning. Alternatively, try it in a traditional ‘borscht’ soup or simply serve hot as a vegetable with soured cream or crème fraîche, black pepper and a few sprigs of parsley.
• A revitalising power juice. Juice together 1 medium beetroot, 1-2 apples and 2-3 medium carrots (no need to cook the beetroot first). This is a great booster when you are run-down after an illness.

NB Don’t panic if your urine turns pink after consuming a lot of beetroot. It’s harmless and you’ll soon return to normal when your intake falls.

Beetroot, Fennel and Lemon Risotto