The spice is right

Is your spice cupboard a no-go zone? Is it crammed full of things you never use, out-of-date bags, pots and boxes you’ve had since 1999? Or even 1989? Time to start again, says Nadine Abensur

First, decide what kind of food you like.

If it’s Indian, Moroccan or Middle Eastern, you’ll need:

  • coriander seeds, whole and ground
  • mustard seeds, yellow and black
  • turmeric
  • cumin seeds, whole and ground
  • cardamom, green and black
  • garam masala, ready made
  • fenugreek seeds
  • anise, star anise
  • ginger
  • whole cloves
  • cinnamon powder and bark/or cassia
  • saffron
  • nutmeg
  • ground pepper
  • chilli powder, dried chillis
  • bay leaf
  • blades of mace
  • paprika

The following ‘minor’ spices are also used quite frequently:

  • fennel seeds
  • caraway seeds
  • lovage seed
  • nigella (wild onion) seeds
  • black cumin seed
  • asafoetida
  • curry leaf, dried
  • fenugreek leaf (methi) dried

If it’s Thai, try:

  • lemongrass
  • limes
  • thai basil
  • kaffir lime leaves
  • green chillies
  • ginger or galangal
  • garlic
  • fresh coriander
  • coconut milk (tinned)
  • Thai fish sauce (‘nam pla’)

Next page: powders and pastes

Powders and pastes
These are easy to make for yourself. Freeze the pastes and use as needed. Keep the powders in airtight tins for up to three months.

Curry Powder
Makes about 8 tbsp

60g whole coriander seeds
15g dry red chillis
1 ½ tsp cumin seeds
1 ½ tsp mustard seeds
1 ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 ½ tsp black peppercorns
3 tbsp turmeric powder

  1. Whiz all seeds and pods to a powder in an electric spice mill or grind by hand in a pestle and mortar and mix in the turmeric.
  2. Place in an airtight screwtop jar and store somewhere cool and dark. Use in southern Indian dishes, such as Chana Saag Aloo.

Garam Masala
These spices and in this combination have a warming effect on the blood and should not be eaten in too large quantities in the summer.

30g cumin seeds
30g coriander seeds
1 ½ cardamom seeds
2 cinnamon sticks
1 ½ tsp whole cloves
3 tbsp black peppercorns
4 bay leaves, broken up
½ tsp ground mace

  1. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat for 2 minutes then add to it everything but the mace.
  2. Dry-roast them for about 10 minutes on a low heat, stirring continuously to stop them from blackening. Transfer to a spice mill and when completely cool, grind to a fine powder.
  3. Add the ground mace. Mix well and store in a screwtop jar, somewhere dark and cool for up to three months. Use in northern Indian curries, such as Sautéed Courgettes with Creamed Tomato and Almond Sauce.

Chermoula
This magnificent Moroccan paste can be served with grilled or baked fish or with grilled vegetables.

5 tbsp olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
3 crushed garlic cloves
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp paprika
pinch of cayenne
1 bunch coriander, chopped

  1. Mix all the ingredients together and use within 7–10 days if kept in the fridge as it tends to oxidise a bit if kept any longer.
  2. Alternatively, freeze in small amounts and add to vegetable stews.

Harissa
This is the fiery chilli paste that’s usually served with couscous but also good on the side with pilafs, bean salads and grilled vegetables. Try it with Algerian Couscous

250g dried hot red peppers
1 head garlic, peeled
1 tbsp ground coriander seeds
1 tbsp ground caraway seeds
1 tbsp salt
extra virgin olive oil

  1. Wear rubber gloves to remove stems and seeds from chilli, then soak in warm water to soften for about 30 minutes.
  2. Chop this and the garlic finely with the other ingredients in a spice mill or by hand in a pestle and mortar.
  3. Store in screwtop jars in the fridge for several weeks.

Next page: getting the spice right

Getting the spice right

  • Always keep spices somewhere cool and dark and in airtight containers.
  • Don’t buy huge bags of anything unless you know you’re the sort of person that’s going to use them. Check them often. Know what you’ve got. Don’t duplicate some things and run out of others.
  • When cooking Indian food, always fry spices first usually with fried onion and loosen with water to make a paste. Work on a very low flame and don’t allow to burn.
  • For a simple, cheap stylish way to store your spices, buy some strong waxed paper bags or persuade a nice deli or cheese shop to give them to you. Write the name of the spice on the bag in bold letters. Fill the bags, fold over and seal with a clothes peg and hang on a length of string or fine wire on a kitchen wall. That way they’ll be on show and you can easily replace the bags.