Chardonnay’s just a tiny bit naff these days, thanks partly to the ubiquitous Bridget Jones. But it’s actually a good grape, with plenty of marvellous wines to recommend it, says Alice King

It’s all Bridget’s fault. The first time she ordered a bottle of chardonnay to fuel a girlie summit with Jude and Shazza down at Café Rouge, the reputation of this noble grape started to slide. Five years ago, it was fashionable. But then, along came Bridget, a rash of new wine bars and drinking clubs, and a glut of cheap supermarket plonk. Suddenly, for anyone sitting on a bar stool about to order a bottle of wine, it was the first name that sprang to the lips. It was unimaginative, run of the mill, and usually Australian.

Today pretty much everyone has tasted Aussie chardonnay. Now, don’t get me wrong – I enjoy them as much as the next person. You just have to be a little selective. Two of my current favourites are Lindeman’s unoaked chardonnay, (£4.99 Threshers and Wine Rack) which is lightish and zippy, has elegance and style and makes for a perfect aperitif. Right at the other end of the taste spectrum is Wickam Estate Reserve chardonnay which is rich with masses of buttery fruit and a butterscotch-like finish. True, it seems expensive at £11.99 (Marks and Spencer’s), but it’s worth it and still relatively cheap compared to serious white burgundy prices

Chardonnay is not a new grape variety. The Burgundians had been using it for centuries, long before the New World hit on the idea of naming the variety on the label. All white burgundy (with the exception of Bourgogne Aligoté) is chardonnay –from the humble Bourgogne Blancs right up to the heady heights of world famous Burgundies such as Puligny Montrachet and Le Montrachet.

If it’s a while since you enjoyed a French chardonnay, now’s a good time to try one. You may be surprised by the complexity of a decent white burgundy. They tend to be lighter and less ‘in your face’ than their New World counterparts with more of a lightly buttery whitecurrant flavour rather than the oaky smoky bacon flavour that characterises so many Aussie chardonnays. But you will have to be prepared to fork out a little more for this French privilege.

If you prefer your chardonnay unoaked, opt for a Chablis. Two of the best around are Laroche Chablis 1999 (£7.99 Safeway) and Marks and Spencer’s Chablis, £7.99 a bottle or £15.99 in majestic looking magnums (1.5 litres). Or look out for a less well-known Burgundy such as Pouilly Fuissé 1998, Duboeuf £9.99 from Sainsbury’s. All these whites can be served as aperitifs or taste good with fish and chicken.

New Zealand is currently making some stunning chardonnays, and because the climate is far more temperate than Australia, Kiwi chardonnays tend to have more in common with French whites than the New World examples. Tesco has a good range from which to choose. Enjoy the unoaked Montana East Coast chardonnay 2000 (£5.99) as an aperitif or opt for the richer, more buttery organic Milton Gisbourne chardonnay at £8.99. This is a great foil for creamy fish dishes.

Or you can go the South American route. Chile and Argentina are now steaming ahead and producing some stunning value-for-money whites. Waitrose’s Caliterra chardonnay produced in Chile’s Central Valley is great value at £4.99. Or try their new Catena Agrelo Vineyards chardonnay 1999 Mendoza, (£8.99), an Argentinian beauty that has a rich, delicious tropical fruit flavour with hints of vanilla derived from the new French oak barrels in which it was matured.

South Africa produces two styles of chardonnay. The lighter style is often blended with the Chenin Blanc grape. Carisbroke Chenin chardonnay is a good value easy drinking party white at £3.99 from Wine Rack and Threshers. Crisper and zippier is Tesco’s Goiya Kgeisje Sauvignon/chardonnay, again stunning value for money at £3.99.

For a much more full-bodied wine you can do no better than Danie de Wet’s Call of the African Eagle Reserve chardonnay (£6.99, only available at the biggest superstores). This impressive dinner party wine tastes delicious with garlic prawns and is even hefty enough to cope with Thai green curry. Enjoy!

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