Do you have 'real' dandruff?

Afraid to wear black tops out of the house? Fight the flakes with our guide to beating unsightly dandruff

Sooner or later almost everyone experiences at least a little flaking, but it's not always caused by dandruff.

Build-up: Heavy conditioners and styling products are made to stick to your hair, but as a result they can cause flaking. Use a clarifying shampoo to stop build-up, and be sure to rinse thoroughly every time you shampoo and condition. Also, avoid using oily or greasy products on your scalp.

  • Dry scalp: This is a common occurrence, especially during colder months. When you wash your hair, be sure to use a mild shampoo and give yourself a scalp massage to loosen flakes. Resist the temptation to overcondition, which can cause build-up, but do deep condition your hair occasionally if necessary.
  • Sensitivity: Your scalp might be reacting to harsh ingredients in your shampoo, so try using a gentler product specifically for sensitive scalps.

If neither of the above help reduce flaking, you might have 'real' dandruff. No one knows exactly what causes it but the current theory is that it's a type of yeast that grows out of control. Fortunately, there are a number of over-the-counter shampoos that can help. The most effective ingredients known as antimicrobials, are zinc pyridinethione, selenium sulphide, sulphur and ketoconazole (also available by prescription). If you colour your hair, don't use products with selenium sulphide or sulphur. Coal tar is another option; it's not an antimicrobial, but it does slow the growth of skin cells, which means you'll get fewer flakes.

Dandruff shampoos can be fairly drying, but don't decrease the number of times you wash. Use dandruff shampoo only as often as you need to. The rest of the time, use a shampoo for normal or dry hair (those formulated for oily hair will just add to the dryness) and condition normally. If your dandruff or flaking doesn't improve, consult your doctor or hairdresser for advice.

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