Prep time: 35 minutes, plus overnight soaking
Cooking time: 8 hours

There are so many versions of 'traditional' pudding that no single recipe can be considered the one and only. This one uses suet, though you can use vegetarian suet instead, which won't affect the final outcome. You can also omit the nuts for people with allergies.

This recipe will serve eight to ten people in a 2-pint/1.2-litre basin or sphere. Double the quantities to make two large puddings or use the given amount to make two 1-pint/600ml puddings, depending on what size basins you have.

Ingredients
125g raisins
125g sultanas
100g currants
150g dried apricots, roughly chopped
25g mixed peel, finely chopped
2 tbsp dark rum
150ml brown ale
50g self-raising flour
1 tsp mixed spice
pinch of ground cinnamon
pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
pinch of ground ginger
pinch of salt
100g fresh white breadcrumbs
100g suet
225g dark brown sugar
2 eggs, beaten
zest and juice of half an orange
zest and juice of half a lemon
25g blanched almonds or hazelnuts, toasted and chopped, optional
1 dessert apple, cored and grated or finely chopped (peel left on)

Preparation
1. Start the day before by soaking the dried fruit in the rum and brown ale, cover and leave overnight.

2. Lightly butter the pudding basin. Sift the flour and spices into a large bowl and add the breadcrumbs, suet and brown sugar. Add the eggs, zest and juice from the orange and lemon, the fruit with all its liquid, the nuts, if using, and the grated or chopped apple. Mix thoroughly then spoon into the basin.

3. How to steam the pudding: cover the pudding by using two sheets of greaseproof paper cut larger than the basin. Lay them on top of each other and make a pleat down the middle by folding the layers over on themselves, about an inch wide. This allows for the pudding to rise while steaming. Do the same with a piece of foil and place on top of the greaseproof paper. Lay the paper and foil on top of the basin and tie a string tightly around the rim of the basin, thus securing the paper and foil. It is helpful to make a 'handle' with another piece of string to help you remove the basin from the pot. Trim some of the excess paper and foil.

4. If you have a steamer large enough to hold the pudding basin, fill the bottom with water and bring to the boil. If using a large saucepan, place the pudding inside and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the basin but not touching the string or paper. Cover the steamer or saucepan with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for eight hours. Keep the kettle full of boiled water, checking the pan from time to time and topping up with water. Whatever you do, don't allow the pan or steamer to boil dry!

5. After eight hours, remove the pudding using the string handle and allow to cool completely. Remove the string, greaseproof paper and foil and re-tie with fresh.

6. Store in a cool, dark, dry place for up to a year. If you want to feed the pudding with more rum, unwrap and poke long holes with a cocktail stick or skewer. Drizzle a tablespoonful over the top and rewrap, remembering to make another string handle.

7. When ready to serve on Christmas Day, steam for another two hours. Carefully unwrap the hot pudding and invert onto a serving plate. To fire the pudding, fill a large soup ladle with rum or brandy and carefully light with a match. Gently ladle the flaming liquid over the pudding and garnish with a sprig of holly. Serve with brandy butter, rum sauce or cream.

The essential accompaniments

And finally, the accompaniments, for what would Christmas pudding be without a spoonful of brandy butter or a ladle of rum sauce? These can be bought ready-made, but they're easy to make, can be done in advance and will compliment the effort put into the pudding itself.

Brandy Butter
To serve with Christmas pudding
Ingredients
225g unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
225g golden caster sugar
grated zest of 1 orange
4 tbsp brandy

Preparation
1. Use an electric whisk to cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
2. Add the orange zest and brandy and mix well.
3. Spoon into a bowl and chill until ready to serve.

Rum Sauce
To serve with Christmas pudding
Ingredients
75g butter
60g plain flour
575ml full fat milk
50g caster sugar
3-4 tbsp dark rum
1 tbsp double cream

Preparation
1. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and cook gently for one minute. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.
2. Add the milk a little at a time, stirring continuously to incorporate into the roux. Return to the heat and bring slowly to the boil, stirring all the time. Simmer gently for two minutes.
3. Remove from the heat and add the sugar and rum, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Stir in the cream.

Chat to Cooking coach Terry Farris about Christmas puddings and more on the Quick & Easy Cooking message board.