by Nikki Racklin

The Principality of Monaco, tucked away in the south-eastern corner of France just near the French-Italian border, has always been the symbol of a decadent way of life - writer Somerset Maugham once dubbed it 'a sunny place for shady people'. The nearest airport is Nice Airport - catch a helicopter from the airport down the coast to the Mediterranean principality. Then you know you've really arrived.

Monaco is still home to the rich and famous and boasts the most beautiful and tabloid-friendly royal family Europe has ever spawned. Indeed the late American film star Grace Kelly and Monaco's Prince Rainier's genes combined for some hugely glamorous offspring in the shape of Princesses Caroline and Stephanie, not to mention Prince Albert. Caroline has been married three times, finally nabbing herself a German prince. Stephanie, on the other hand, has tried her hand at many careers (swimwear designer, model, pop singer) and has dallied with bodyguards and circus trainers - poor Papa is often captured in Hello! or Paris Match looking exasperated at the shenanigans of his youngest. Albert is usually snapped with some beautiful woman on his arm - he has yet to be snapped up in the matrimonial sense.

Its privileged geographical position around a pretty bay, cradled by mountains, the mild climate and its many cultural events ensure Monaco's continued pulling power. It is, of course, home to one of the world's great automobile races, the Monaco Formula One Grand Prix. Other events that attract an international crowd include the Monte Carlo Rally, the Monte Carlo Tennis Open, the International Circus Festival, the Ball of the Rose, the Red Cross Gala and the World Music Awards.

In season, the prime place to see and be seen is the Monte Carlo Beach Hotel with its beach and jetty, saltwater swimming pool and four top restaurants. Princess Stephanie has been known to parade her snake hips around the 'piscine'. If you don't mind mixing with the hoi polloi, there's always the Plage Larvotto with its many restaurants and cafes. Don't expect white sands though - the Larvotto has been regained from the sea, so sun worshippers lounge on man-made pebbles instead. Boating buffs can wander down to the port to marvel at the luxury yachts moored there; some are so big they have helicopters on their top decks. On summer nights, their owners have candlelit, waiter-served dinner parties on board. Just don't hover around the quayside waiting to be invited. Instead, head to the Restaurant du Port - it's also a great place to watch one of the many firework displays on show throughout the summer months.

There's virtually no street crime in Monaco - burly policemen and close circuit cameras at every turn put paid to that. Monaco is so compact - just 486 acres, smaller than New York's Central Park - so it's easy to get around on foot. You can walk around the whole coastline in a couple of hours. Steep stairwells cut into the rock and the many lifts ('ascenseurs') are dotted around to help walkers negotiate the steep hills. The Boulevard des Moulins is the high street to cruise for everyday shopping, but designer addicts should get themselves to the Avenue des Beaux-Arts (just off the casino square) for a veritable who's who of haute couture. There are also plenty of smart, marble-laden shopping galleries around town that are more than happy to relieve you of your euros.

The best place to enjoy an aperitif and indulge in some high quality people-watching is at the famous Café de Paris in the Place du Casino. A myriad of expensive motors will glide shamelessly past your terrace seat. Pop across the square to the Hôtel de Paris for sumptuous dining at the Louis XV, courtesy of legendary chef Alain Ducasse. For more economical fare, try Rampoldi or Le Bistroquet, or walk down to Avenue Princesse Grace for some top notch Italian food Chez Gianni or at Sass Café, where you can rub shoulders till the early hours with high living Monégasque playboys and their glossy girlfriends. If lady luck is at your side, visit the Monte Carlo Casino, an opulent jewel built in 1878. The walls and ceilings of the magnificent gaming halls are decorated with carvings and paintings. Kings, princes, writers and industrialists have all gambled here. Choose from American, English and European Roulette, 30/40, Chemin de Fer, Banque à deux tableaux, Baccara, Black Jack, Craps, Punto Banco, Video Poker and slot machines. Finally, dance till dawn at the world famous nightclub Jimmy'z with its Cuban smoking parlour and ghosts of past revellers inhabiting the dance floor.

Countless famous faces have called the principality home over the years - many of them are still to be seen quietly going about their business, the locals inured to star-spotting. Designer Karl Lagerfeld, Glen Hoddle, Shirley Bassey, photographer Helmut Newton, Ringo Starr and Barbara Bach, Roger Moore, Demis Roussos, Claudia Schiffer, Boris Becker and Bjorn Borg are just some of those who have been lured to the fairytale land by the sea. Why not join them?

To arrange your trip, go to www.visitmonaco.com

Telephone numbers:

• Le Casino (+377 92 16 21 21)
• Le Café de Paris (+377 92 16 21 21)
• Monte Carlo Beach Hôtel (+377 97 97 51 00)
• Louis XV at the Hotel de Paris (+377 92 16 30 01)
• Rampoldi (+377 93 30 70 65)
• Le Bistroquet (+377 93 50 65 03)
• Chez Gianni (+377 93 30 46 33)
• Restaurant du Port (+377 93 50 77 21)
• Sass Café (+377 93 25 52 00)
• Jimmy'z (+377 92 16 22 77)