Sharm el Sheikh:
Despite some plush hotels, the town itself lacks charm, but the nearby diving grounds are superb and Sharm is cheaper than the adjacent luxury resort of Na'ama Bay. Divers are drawn by reefs at Ras Umm Sidd - also the name of the hotels and villas that run northwards along the coast. Na'ama Bay resembles a glamorous Mediterranean coastal resort, with a fine beach (divided into hotel-owned plots) and upmarket hotels, dive centres and malls. Beyond Na'ama, tourist villages now line the coast up to and beyond the airport. The once-secluded Shark Bay also offers large resorts and a fine beach. A dazzling selection of dive sites between Sharm and Na'ama is the chief attraction of both resorts.

Dahab:
Just over an hour north of Sharm airport, Dahab offers a magnificent mountain backdrop and great diving. Named after the Arabic word for "gold" (apt, given its beaches), it comprises two parts: El Qura bay (international hotels and holiday villages) and the Bedouin village of Asilah, where younger pleasure-seekers hang out - though as Asilah smartens up, the distinction is blurring.

Nuweiba:
Described as "a cut-price Na'ama Bay", Nuweiba was originally one of the big oases of south Sinai, with dramatic scenery and beaches. During the 1970s Israeli and Western backpackers flocked here to party; nowadays the resort attracts a more conventional crowd of affluent Egyptians and package tourists. A neighbouring Bedouin settlement, Tarabeen, draws younger, low-budget travellers.

Hurghada:
Over the past 20 years Hurghada has evolved from a humble fishing village into a booming town dependent on tourism. Despite its spacious boulevards and prime location between sea and mountains, it's not particularly pleasant, with a careless jumble of modern buildings. You can hide in a resort or holiday village, but the chief attractions remain offshore: numerous coral islands and reefs are a few hours' boat ride away, while live-aboards access more remote dive sites. Hedonistic Hurghada attracts a cosmopolitan clientele (Russians, Australians and Japanese included) and best suits those who like diving and discos.

Marsa Alam:
Three scenic hours' drive south of Hurghada, and only just opening up for tourism, Marsa still offers unspoilt natural surroundings, few hotels and fine diving - although it's increasingly popular since Hurghada's airport opened.

El Gouna:
North of Hurghada, set on a cluster of islands beneath serrated mountains, scenic El Gouna borders turquoise lagoons. Much of the resort is built in traditional Egyptian style, around inner courtyards. The lively downtown area has pastel-coloured buildings, shops, galleries, cafes, bars and discos.

Hammamet:
Known as "the Garden Resort", Hammamet has been Tunisia's most famous holiday venue since the 1960s. Sophisticated low-rise hotels separate the vast sandy beach from a lively town of whitewashed, bougainvillaea-draped buildings, brimming with discos, restaurants and colourful shops. Cultures mingle: you can play golf or haggle in the souk. The town lies on the fertile Cap Bon peninsula, famous for citrus farming and wine production. Tunisia's tourist hub, Hammamet offers everything but seclusion (quietening only briefly during midwinter).

Monastir:
To the south of the Gulf of Hammamet, Monastir offsets fine Islamic architecture with modern holiday facilities. Eight kilometres from its old walled medina is the resort of Skanes, with a restaurant-lined marina and beachside hotels offering tennis, golf and nightlife.

Port el Kantaoui:
Tunisia's answer to the chic marinas of the northern Med, this cosmopolitan, purpose-built resort is a quiet place to relax. Hotels border the long, sandy beach and the yacht-filled dock offers quality restaurants and shopping. There are two 18-hole golf courses and a few hotel discos.

Sousse:
Tunisia's third-largest city and a major port, Sousse is a modern resort built around an ancient hub (including a fortified monastery and the Great Mosque, both 8th century). It's among the country's most popular tourist destinations, with a long beach sprouting resort hotels. The town retains a strong North African tradition, but there are discos, a casino and fine French restaurants near the attractive esplanade.

Essaouira:
The country's most charming coastal resort (chosen by Orson Welles for his 1949 film, Othello), Essaouira is a fishing port with fortified walls and empty, golden sands, situated below hills of olive and argan trees. Its labyrinthine medina hides smart boutiques, traditional workshops, art galleries and stalls. Conditions are perfect for surfing and windsurfing: Essaouira bills itself "Wind City, Afrika" and hosts international contests. Despite increasing numbers of package visitors and new chain hotels, this relaxed resort is still far from spoilt, with riad-style inns and whitewashed, blue-shuttered houses.

Agadir:
Morocco's premier beach resort offers year-round sunshine and is a great base for exploring spectacular scenery inland. Ten kilometres of breezy golden beach border a modern, well-planned resort, offering water sports, camel rides and golf. Agadir has an atmosphere unique within Morocco, with palm-lined boulevards, open squares, well-tended gardens and fixed-price shops (though you can still haggle in the souk). At sunset, people pack the beachfront bars, preparing for a night on the town.

Atlantic Coast Resorts:
Most tourist hotels are sited around the Kotu and Kololi areas along a 10km stretch of beach. Many are mini-European enclaves, offering water sports, golf and poolside bars. On the beach, expect plenty of friendly interaction with locals selling fruit, nuts and handicrafts. The government has introduced training, uniform and ID cards to reduce the number of so-called "bumsters" trying to sell their services as guides. Away from hotels (for example, in the markets of Serrekunda and Bakau), this tiny country offers authentic Africa. Restaurants serve a variety of cuisines, from Gambian to Italian or Lebanese.

Escape Inland:
Avoid the coastal tourist area by visiting secluded inland lodges, such as Makasutu, a new riverside eco-venture. En route, see local villages and the country's celebrated birdlife.

Note:
all these countries observe Ramadan, from early November to early December this year (exact dates depend on your location). The pace of life slows and there may be restrictions on alcohol and restaurant facilities. Check before you go: some tourist areas remain unaffected.