by Philip Briggs

Personal security is one of the prime concerns for many visitors to Africa, but in reality the continent is just as safe - if not safer - than most other destinations.

Philip Briggs, the much-travelled and respected author of eight African guide books, debated the question "Is Africa Safe?" He concluded that the biggest dangers were traveller ignorance and arrogance and that the continent is no more dangerous to visit than any other, provided a few simple precautions are taken.

The lack of information and the misconceptions that circulate internationally about the continent are probably the biggest problems facing tourism in Africa.

Sometimes tourists get abducted by terrorists or killed by wild animals, but in a year it's a minuscule number of the millions who travel happily throughout the continent. In fact the probability of having your pockets picked, your bag snatched or being taken by a con artist are far greater. Bradt, Footprint and Lonely Planet guidebooks all offer good security information and advice based upon the personal experience of the authors and their researchers. A review of these publications suggests that there are a number of ideas that may just help you prevent problems and get the most from your safari experience. These include:

Afore Ye Go

• Get a sit-rep. Current situational reports (sit-reps) from your local embassy, reputable tour operator, recent visitors and other knowledgeable persons are advised - and essential if visiting high-risk areas. Update this information in situ before setting off for remote parks or resorts.


• Set up contacts. Get the names and addresses of potentially helpful high-ranking officials and privateindividuals in places you plan to visit - just in case problems are encountered.
• Be contactable. Arrange places where you can be phoned and/or have mail sent. Have correspondence addressed by family name followed by first name(s) or initials - it's the custom used in many African states.
• Have a back-up. Arrange for a reliable friend at home or in a neighbouring country to provide help if needed - to send money if yours is stolen, for example. Maintain regular contact if travelling in unusual situations so that your last whereabouts are known. Leave relevant details, or photocopies, of important documents such as passport, visas, licences, travel insurance policies and numbers of bank accounts and travellers' cheques with the contact.
• Cover possible losses. Prepare additional document photocopies to carry with you. Keep these separate from the originals and spread around yourself and luggage for safety.
• Pack your bags. Discard easy-to-carry holdalls and fancy matching sets - a big and battered (but sturdy and secure) suitcase doesn't label you as a wealthy tourist and is less attractive and portable for snatch thieves. Make sure all items, including handbags and backpacks, are lockable (combination locks are safer). Pack a long chain for padlocking cases together at airports, bus and train stations. Secure your most important and valuable items at the bottom of the biggest and heaviest suitcase. Buy a lockable pouch or wallet for documents to be left in hotel safes.
• Dress with sense. Don't purchase designer safari wear. It carries a "raw tourist ripe for a rip-off" label. Likewise leave the flash jewellery and watches at home and put your fancy camera inside an innocuous-looking carry bag. Try to dress conservatively and behave like a seasoned, local "ex-pat" and thus attract less attention to yourself than the fool who openly flaunts his wealth. Ladies, pack a wrap-around skirt or sarong and a headscarf for a quick cover-up when required - visiting mosques, for example.
• Secure your cash. Don't buy an external money belt - it shouts "tourist" and is easy pickings for the slash-and-grab thief. Rather make and use cloth pouches that can be velcro-ed inside your shirtfront. Don't use open pockets, especially in trouser backs, and carry small amounts of ready cash in a zipped shirt front pocket.
• Carry no incriminating evidence. In general, journalists, hippies, gays and "oddities" receive short shift in African countries, so don't sport or carry evidence of such dispositions with you. Make sure the occupation listed in your passport is benign and that any prescribed medication is supported by authoritative documentation. Be wary of writing down names and addresses of locals you befriend on incoming flights; officials in sensitive countries may find your list and motives suspicious.

For further information about travel in Africa, visit Travel Africa Magazine

On Safari

• Don't be a target. Don't travel alone; stay in company as much as possible. Tell others your destination, route and ETA. Avoid known danger areas, especially at night. Don't set up predictable patterns of behaviour if you are in one place for any length of time. Always keep your luggage padlocked and never let it out of your sight in unsecured places. Carry handbags and holdalls under your arm and never hang them on chair backs.
• Take the right cab. Use a reputable taxi, especially after dark. Never take a taxi if the driver is not alone. If in doubt select the second or third cab in the rank. Agree your destination and price including luggage before getting in. Place your hand luggage on the floor (out of sight) with straps around your feet. Make sure all doors are locked and your windows closed sufficiently to prevent someone putting a hand in. Pay the fare before alighting. If staying in one place for any length of time, befriend and repeatedly use one driver. In crowded minibuses hold your luggage on your lap and keep your elbows over your side pockets.
• Hire with care. Before boarding a boat ensure that it and the boatman are registered or employed by a licensed company. Check that it carries life jackets and back-up for engine failure. A working radio is essential on large lakes and the ocean. When hiring off-road vehicles insist on training in using the four-wheel drive, diff lock, winch and other fitted equipment before departure.
• Don't get car-jacked. Avoid driving through rural areas, homelands, back streets and down town in high-risk cities after dark. Drive with doors locked, windows up and handbag under the seat. Stop at least a car length behind other vehicles at traffic lights and be prepared to jump lanes and lights if threatened. If deliberately followed by another vehicle drive to a police station. In the case of a hold-up offer NO resistance - car-jackers are often armed and prepared for violence.
• Think before you go walkabout. Plan your route beforehand and take a torch and companions at night. Consider a personal alarm or self-protection device if nervous but don't carry firearms or offensive weapons. Take as little of value as possible and use innocuous carry-bags for cameras, etc. Don't amble or look lost, move purposefully and confidently. Avoid known high-risk areas and deserted streets, and walk in the middle of "suspicious" and ill-lit streets, avoiding shadows. Use lights of passing cars to search areas ahead.
• Deal with advances. Because of their dress and behaviour, some western women (and men!) are considered to be of easy virtue. To avoid being molested, dress modestly, wear a wedding ring and carry family pictures (real or borrowed), avoid eye contact with strange men, ignore rude or soliciting remarks and make it clear that you are there on company business. In Muslim areas, travel with at least one companion. Cover your arms and legs, and have a male escort if possible. When riding in minibuses, taxis, buses and trains, sit next to other women or elderly men. You'll probably still get some flirting and the occasional direct proposal, but a polite yet firm refusal will normally suffice.
• Don't get hassled. Hustling is the name of the game, particularly in Morocco and North African countries where many live off commissions for guiding tourists around sites and into shops, or on profits from direct sales. The golden rule is be polite but firm, very firm.
• Remember, everything is negotiable. Always establish exact destinations and prices before hiring a guide and if shopping is not included make this absolutely clear. Don't fall for "come-ons" such as "don't you remember me from the hotel?" or sales pitches like "special for today (or for you) only", or any of the thousand and one other persuasive tricks. If you don't want what is offered, be polite. Ignore abuse (racial or otherwise) and if they persist a polite mention of the police can often have a loosening effect.
• Don't get tricked. Confidence tricks abound in every country - and are played with consummate skill and highly plausible stories. Be particularly wary of street children (especially in gangs), anyone begging, soliciting sponsorship or spinning a hard luck story - assume it's a con. Steer very clear of black-market currency or gemstone traders; if they're not "pulling a scam" they're probably in cahoots with the police and you'll be tapped for a hefty bribe. And look out for all the normal pickpocket tricks - being bumped into, distracted, crowded or handled in any way.
• Don't get snapped up. Certain countries and officials are markedly suspicious of foreigners, particularly from nations with whom their country has strained relations. As a rule don't take photos of any structure, person, occasion or situation that may be of strategic, military or political importance, at least not without asking beforehand. Spying, a stock accusation beloved by perverted authorities, covers a multitude of "sins" and is conveniently vague. African detention facilities are usually primitive, unhygienic, overcrowded and thoroughly unpleasant.

Put it in Perspective

In Africa, tourists are always going to be targets due to their relative and conspicuous wealth. By contrast many Africans live below the poverty line, are unemployed and are simply trying to scrape together a living. Most of those you meet are not going to be a major problem. In fact you'll probably find them as honest, friendly and helpful, if not more so, than people elsewhere. However, prepare for the worst and enjoy the best.

For further information about travel in Africa, visit Travel Africa Magazine

Published in Travel Africa Edition Ten: Winter 1999/2000. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)