by Anna Selby

Seville is the archetypal city of the South, a heady mix of song, scented gardens and - sometimes overpowering - heat.

The best way to see Seville is to walk through it. The centre is compact, there are plenty of shady squares and parks and, if the heat gets too much, you can always take the horse and carriage ride around the main sites and the Parque de Maria Luisa. The sun is certainly a consideration when visiting Seville and the summer is to be avoided because of both the heat and the crowds. Out of season, though, you can usually expect warm weather and a city where life is lived out of doors and as vibrantly as possible.

Seville is credited with the invention of many typically Spanish institutions. Flamenco, for instance, is believed to have been created by the gypsies of Seville. You can see the authentic version in the bars and restaurants that line the west bank of the River Guadalquivir or in the flamenco clubs and theatres in the heart of town. Flamenco is not the only music inspired by Seville, though - it has been the setting for Carmen (the old tobacco factory is now the university), Don Juan's amorous escapades and Figaro's barbershop was in the old quarter of town, the Barrio Santa Cruz.

The Barrio is in the centre of town, close by the Alcazares and the Cathedral. It is an area of narrow alleyways, overhung with sweet-scented jasmine and delightful piazzas filled with orange trees - perfect for a romantic dinner. However, restaurants are not really Seville's strongest suit. The city is much more famed for its tapas bars. Tapas are another Sevillian invention - small plates of delicious snacks, eaten with a glass of fino, the driest of sherries, drunk ice cold. Tapas ranges from grilled sardines and tortilla to albondigas (meatballs) and pulpo (octopus). The air-dried ham (jamon serrano) is not to be missed. The best way to sample them and Seville is to have just one plate and then move on - the world's most sophisticated bar crawl!

Reales Alcazares

The Reales Alcazares are the royal palaces built by the barbaric 14th century Castilian king, aptly named Pedro the Cruel. He did, however, have his aesthetic side as can be seen in the dazzling palace built for him by the newly conquered Moors and filled with arabesque open courtyards with tiers of slender columns and horseshoe arches, exquisite glazed tiles (azulejos), ceilings glittering with gold and indoor cooling fountains. There are more fountains and azulejos - used for outdoor seating benches - in the palace gardens that feature a riot of exotica.

La Giralda and the cathedral

The Giralda is part of the cathedral now but was originally the minaret from which the Muezzin called the Islamic faithful to prayer. A climb to the top provides the best view of Seville but the way up consists of ramps rather than steps. This is because the muezzin would make the journey on horseback rather than on foot. The cathedral itself is vast - only St Paul's in London and St Peter's in Rome are bigger. The towering golden altar and the adjoining, comparatively sombre choir make up the centrepiece, but there are countless smaller chapels with works of art by Goya, Murillo Zurbaran and Van Dyck as well as the impressive tomb of Christopher Columbus.

The Bullring

Seville has one of the country's oldest bullrings, La Maestranza, built in 1760 and home of the first school for toreros. It still has bullfights (the season is spring and summer) but if you don't feel you can face one of those, a tour is a fascinating alternative. The arena itself is irregular - neither oval nor round - with doors for bulls (dead and alive) and matadors triumphant (three ears in one day required) or otherwise. The goriest exit leads to the infirmeria that today houses a fully functioning operating theatre.

Universidad de Sevilla

Today it's the university, but it was built as the Real Fabrica de Tabacos in 1757 where Carmen worked making cigarettes, and was the inspiration for Bizet's opera. It is just a few minutes' walk from here to the Parque de Maria Luisa, the largest and shadiest park in Seville.

Hospital de la Caridad

This fascinating Sevillian baroque building still functions as a hospital, but you can go in to see its graceful patio and ornate chapel with Murillo paintings. It was founded - rather out of character - by Don Miguel de Manara whose amorous exploits inspired the legend of Don Juan. His statue can be seen in the little park opposite.

Plaza de Espana

Within the Parque de Maria Luisa is the monumental Plaza de Espana built as part of the 1929 Expo. It is an extravaganza of brick, ceramic and marble and is surrounded by fountains and lakes. You will visit it as part of every horse and carriage ride or you can easily walk there together with locals who treat it as a cultural playground.

Casa de Pilatos

This is the prototype Andalucian palace built in 1540 with Mudejar (Arab), medieval and Renaissance influences. There is a lovely courtyard with fine azulejos, a grand staircase, Roman statuary and upper apartments brimming with fine art.

Museo de Bellas Artes

The Museo contains one of the best collections of Spanish art anywhere in the world with works by Murillo, Velazquez, El Greco and more. It was originally built as the Convento de la Merced Calsado in 1612 and closed for years for extensive restoration. It is now considered second only to the Prado in Madrid.

Passport to Seville

Where to stay
Spain at Heart has typical Sevillian apartments in the heart of the old quarter of Santa Cruz, ideal for visiting all the main sites. All have air conditioning/heating, fully equipped kitchens, TV and radio and most have balconies or gardens. There is a welcome hamper of food and wine and a local English-speaking agent to assist you throughout the stay. Prices start at £250 for three nights, from £460 for a week, based on two people sharing. Call Spain at Heart tel 01373 814222.

Where to eat and drink

• Plaza de Dona Elvira, is the Barrio Santa Cruz's prettiest square. There are numerous restaurants all serving typical Andalucian food.
• La Tienda de Moratin, C/Moratin, 15, tel 0034 954 563 665. Wide range of tapas and good range of wines by the glass or bottle (and unusually half bottle). Look out for the well used to cool the cellar!
• El Rinconcillo, C/Gerona 40, Alhondiga 2, tel 0034 954 223 183. One of the oldest tapas bars in Seville (opened in 1670) with hams hanging from the ceiling and the bill chalked on the counter.
• Kiosko de las Flores, Plaza del Altozano, Triana, tel 0034 954 333 898. The most famous fried fish shop in a city that loves its sardines, clams, squid and even sea anemone.

Find out more
www.andalucia.com - specialist Andalucia site
www.tourspain.es - official Spanish tourist office website
www.spainlist.com - weather, maps, flamenco, art galleries, museums etc.