When to go
During summertime Brighton really dazzles - think beachlife, bohemia, and booze. But you can bet your bottom dollar that if you've opened the curtains on a glorious Saturday morning and thought, 'I'm off to Brighton,' hundreds of other people will have, too.

From June to August, the city gets seriously jammed - foreign tourists, British holidaymakers, and hen and stag parties fight for space on the beach. Don't even think about coming for an overnight stay during these months if you haven't booked accommodation in advance. You can make the most of the spring and summer weather with less hassle by arriving during the week and taking advantage of the many mid-week packages offered by hotels and B&Bs.

At other times of the year, there's nothing like getting all wrapped up and going for a walk by the stormy sea - some days, the only company you will have are the circling seagulls. Even in town there's a real melancholy beauty. Low season also means fewer jacked-up hotel prices, mile-long queues for the car parks, and patience-testing waits in restaurants.

Beach Life
The main drag on Brighton beach - from the Palace Pier to Hove - may be popular, but it isn't particularly picturesque. Because the shore is made up entirely of pebbles, it's also not the most comfortable stretch of waterfront for strolling barefoot or picnicking on. The upside: you won't get sand in your cheese sarnies.

Another reason you might want to give this part of the beach a miss is that in the summer, large gangs of lager-drinking lads take up residence. If you're looking for somewhere quieter - either on your own or with the kids - head for Hove beach, about a quarter of a mile west of Brighton. It's a 10-minute stroll away and you'll be rewarded with a cleaner and calmer beach. Try some of the delicious ice cream from Mario's, the family-run Italian restaurant on the front, and keep your eyes peeled for some famous residents. Fatboy Slim and Zoe Ball, Paul McCartney and Heather Mills are neighbours in the stunning row of houses nicknamed Millionaire's Row, at the west end of the beach.

If you'd like to get in the water but don't fancy dodging driftwood, you can go for a swim at the Prince Regent swimming pool in Church Street (01273 685 692), or you can be a proper bathing belle at Saltdean's stunning Art Deco Lido (01273 305155, Saltdean Park Road, Saltdean). Invest in an all-day bus ticket for around a couple of quid (you can ride as often as you like all around town) and catch a 712 bus to watch a less touristy Brighton go by. A fun game to play with the kids is to see if you can spot the buses with the names of famous residents painted on the front.

Talking shop
Brighton is a shopaholic's paradise. In the famous North Laine area (shoehorned between The Pavilion and The Palace Pier), you'll find everything from cool vintage clothes to kitsch furniture. If you've got a spare couple of hours, check out Snoopers Paradise, an amazing flea-market in Kensington Gardens. It's like a trip back through time, with offbeat kitsch like that Seventies table lamp your mum and dad had, and antique jewellery. (I've spotted Julian Clary there, buying old postcards.) Don't be put off by the market's ramshackle appearance - you do have to dig around, but it's safe and there are great bargains to be had.

For shamelessly tacky souvenirs, pop into The Old Rocke Shop, opposite Regency Square. Not only is the 128-year-old building still in surprisingly good nick, but you can also get some top-quality novelties here. Liquorice-flavoured bacon-and-egg, anyone?

Then there's the mecca for chocoholics - ChoccyWoccyDooDah (27 Middle Street). The amazing creations have to be seen to be believed, from four-tier wedding cakes featuring chocolate cabbages to the shop's less extravagant but hugely popular chocolate bars.

Eating out
The city has loads of options ranging from fresh, hot donuts on the pier to more refined dining. Brighton isn't known for its culinary sophistication, but that doesn't mean you can't find great food, as long as you know where to look.

• Harry's
  41 Church Road (01273 727410)
  This place serves the best full-on English breakfast in Brighton - wear an elasticated waist to tackle the artery-clogging classic. In the evening, the restaurant does posh versions of traditional English fare - think quality sausages and creamy mash. It's a good idea to make reservations. In the summer months, Harry's is always packed.

• Terre à Terre
  71 East Street (01273 729051)
  Take your camera along when you eat here (booking is a must). The stunningly-presented modern vegetarian food arrives at your table ready for its close-up. But by all means do tuck in. The food is reliably delicious, especially the home-made rum truffles for pudding.

• Regency
  131 Kings Road (01273 325014)
  Give the over-priced Harry Ramsden's a miss, and have your fish-and-chip tea here instead. The distinctive restaurant looks like it has been beamed up straight out of a 'Carry On' film, and beyond the fish and chips, their seafood platters are brilliant value, as well. The sea views make it especially popular in the summertime.

Watering holes
Warning: you could develop a drinking problem if you stay too long in Brighton. The stunning sunsets just look so much better with a pint of ice-cold lager or glass of wine in your hand. It's a tough call choosing from so many fab and friendly boozers, but here are two standouts:

• Coopers Cask
  3 Farm Road, Hove (01273 737 026)
  Where to start? The staff are incredibly friendly, there's a fine selection of ales, they do a mean Sunday Roast (arrive early to ensure you get a table), and you get free sweeties at the bar.

• The Great Eastern
  103 Trafalgar Street (01273 685 681)
  If you actually like holding a conversation when you go to the pub, head to this traditional, cosy pub with its flock wallpaper and roomy seats. The chilled-out atmosphere comes into its own on a Sunday afternoon, but if you want to eat, get there early.

Night, night
If you've got money to burn, book into the opulent Grand Hotel (01273 321188) on the seafront. If the £1,350 price tag for the Presidential suite (where both JFK and Ronald Reagan once slept) is a bit steep, book a sea-facing double for a slightly more democratic £250.

For those on a tighter budget, Montpelier Hall (01273 203599) is a good option. The guest house - located on the pretty Montpelier Terrace - has the feel of a country retreat, with spectacular gardens. And for £50 a double room, you might even get to meet the female ghost who is said to haunt it.

Hipsters will like the Hotel Pelirocco (01273 327055), which has themed rooms influenced by pop culture, music and more. You can bed down in the O2 Bubble Suite (with circular bed and mirrored ceiling), get groovy in Lenny Beige's Love Palace (with a cheesy '70s theme awash in animal prints) or enjoy playtime in Nookii (complete with a trademark Kinkybed, a strip show sign and black satin). (Read our review of Hotel Pelirocco.)

And oenophiles will find a haven just steps from the seafront at Hotel du Vin (01273 718588). The boutique hotel chain is known for its interesting - and affordable - wine and spirits lists. The accommodations are just as evolved: Egyptian cotton linens, deluge showers and a cigar and billiards gallery above the bar.

Brighton address book

For more information about Brighton, contact Tourist Information - 0906 7112255 or www.tourism.brighton.co.uk, which provides history, listings, maps and a virtual tour of the city.

Contact information and prices were correct at time of publication.

Swimming and shopping

Eating and drinking

Sleeping