Worried about that blotch or dry, flaky patch? Relax, you're not alone - we've uncovered some of the more common skin problems and how you can deal with them
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Rosacea
What is it: If you have a history of blushing, or if your face flushes after a glass of wine, you may be in the first stages of rosacea. In addition, environmental pollutants, too much sun and hormonal changes can all trigger rosacea, which is characterised by a red, uneven complexion and broken veins. This common condition is predominant in women and Celtic skin types with red or fair hair, and blue or green eyes - and accounts for about one to three per cent of hospital consultations. Sources of heat tend to aggravate the disorder, and people with fragile, sensitive or reactive skins are also prone to rosacea.
How to treat it: Conventional treatment is with oral and topical antibiotics, while tuneable dye laser treatment is offered privately. Leading dermatologist Dr Tim Cutler comments: 'Redness, and rosacea in particular, affects thousands of people but there are currently insufficient products available in the UK to deal with the condition'. However, we have tracked down a few, including Eau Thermale Avene's two new moisturizers, and Diroseal treatment cream, £21 for 30ml, which reduces the formation of new blood vessels and helps thicken the epidermis (available from April: 0845 117 0116). Prescriptives PX Custom Concentrates Redness Relief Gel, £37 (01730 232566), soothes red, irritated skin with a highly concentrated patented complex, and the Organic Pharmacy (020 7351 2232) has a Rosacea Tincture, from £4.50 for 7g, containing antioxidant and hormone-balancing milk thistle, red clover, bilberry and rosemary.Nutritional tips from Penny Povey, naturopath at Farmacia Urban Healing (020 7831 0830): Avoid chocolate, cow's milk, sugars and drinks that induce facial flushing. Eat plenty of raw vegetables and fruit.
Supplements: Antioxidants, essential fatty acids and digestive enzymes.
Herbs: Echinacea.
Eczema
What is it: Eczema, or dermatitis, is a group of skin conditions that affects all age groups. In the UK, up to one-fifth of children have eczema, and about one in twelve adults. In mild forms the skin is dry, hot and itchy, while in more severe forms, the skin can be broken, raw and bleeding. Atopic eczema is thought to be a hereditary and genetically linked condition, while other types of eczema are caused by irritants such as chemicals and detergents, allergens such as nickel, and yeast growths. In later years eczema can be attributed to blood circulatory problems in the legs.
How to treat it: Common treatments include emollients, topical and oral steroids, topical immunomodulators and antihistamines. Switch to cotton bedding and clothing, use non-biological washing powder and take steps to reduce the effect of the house dust mite which is often a cause. Complementary and nutritional therapies have also helped many sufferers. Try an emollient product such as aqueous cream from the chemist, or Fresh Umbrian Clay Treatment Bar, £26 for 225g (07775 502 084) which contains healing minerals, a high concentration of alkaline salt, and is anti-inflammatory and absorbent. Ideal for facial eczema is Gerards GLA facial, from £28 (01923 253500), a natural and soothing salon treatment that boosts the levels of gamma linoleic acid within the skin, essential if the immune system is to perform at an optimum level.
Nutritional tips from Penny Povey: Avoid dairy and wheat products, processed foods, citrus fruits, alcohol, coffee and chocolate.
Supplements: Essential fatty acids, antioxidants and digestive enzymes.
Milia (whiteheads)
What it is: Milia are common, keratin-filled spots that usually appear around the eyes, on the cheeks and on the eyelids in all ages, from infants to adults. Primary milia are believed to arise in sebaceous glands that are not fully developed, and are more common in infants but can occur in children and adults. Secondary milia are seen in a number of blistering disorders and following dermabrasion due to disruption of the sweat duct.
How to treat it: Milia should never be attacked with pins or fingernails as there's a danger of infection and scarring. To treat them yourself, hold a comfortably hot, wet facecloth over the skin for a few minutes, to loosen and remove dead skin cells. Use an exfoliating facial wash containing salicylic acid to remove the top layer of skin, which will enable the cysts to fall out. If you prefer to leave it to the professionals, Matis Treatment ACN, from £30 (01322 290 101), is a non-invasive treatment designed to purify and rebalance the skin.
Milia (whiteheads)
What it is: Milia are common, keratin-filled spots that usually appear around the eyes, on the cheeks and on the eyelids in all ages, from infants to adults. Primary milia are believed to arise in sebaceous glands that are not fully developed, and are more common in infants but can occur in children and adults. Secondary milia are seen in a number of blistering disorders and following dermabrasion due to disruption of the sweat duct.
How to treat it: Milia should never be attacked with pins or fingernails as there's a danger of infection and scarring. To treat them yourself, hold a comfortably hot, wet facecloth over the skin for a few minutes, to loosen and remove dead skin cells. Use an exfoliating facial wash containing salicylic acid to remove the top layer of skin, which will enable the cysts to fall out. If you prefer to leave it to the professionals, Matis Treatment ACN, from £30 (01322 290 101), is a non-invasive treatment designed to purify and rebalance the skin.
Psoriasis
What is it: Affecting approximately three per cent of the Western population, psoriasis is a not-yet curable disease. It begins deep in the immune system but is revealed by a dramatically increased number of skin cells in the top layers of the skin. Normal skin cells mature in 28 to 30 days and then are shed from the skin's surface. With psoriasis, a malfunction in the immune system causes skin cells to regenerate much more quickly - every three to four days. As the skin cells accumulate, they form scaly areas of skin.
How to treat it: Topical steroids, topical coal tar preparations, occlusion therapy (which involves covering the skin with an airtight, waterproof wrapping of mild to moderate steroids or moisturisers), and wet-wrap bandaging are typical psoriasis treatments. In the private sector, the XTRAC FDA-approved Excimer laser system (07000 560 821), offers an 80 per cent chance of successfully treating and sustaining recovery from the condition. A course of treatments starts from £500. Dead Sea minerals are known to relieve eczema and psoriasis-related irritation and itching; try the Malki Dead Sea range, from £3.10, which includes bath salts, mineral soap and black mud mask soap. Available from Boots stores nationwide or visit deadseabathcare.co.uk
Nutritional tips from Penny Povey: Lots of oily fish, fresh fruit and vegetables, low sugar, low fat, dairy free. Avoid alcohol, greasy foods, spicy foods, refined carbohydrates, additives, processed foods, caffeine and soft drinks.
Supplements: Essential fatty acids.
Uneven pigment and vitiligo
What is it: Uneven pigmentation can be caused by environmental stress, excessive UV exposure, the production of excess melanin which clumps together in cells, or a continued increase in melanin production and a slowing down in melanin dispersion, which highlights the difference between pigmented and normal skin areas, with the skin appearing uneven. In contrast, vitiligo is a disorder in which patches of white skin appear on various parts of the body. The skin is white because the cells responsible for producing brown pigment have disappeared. There are more than half a million vitiligo sufferers in the UK, with 50 per cent of cases appearing before the age of 20.
How to treat it: Steroid creams and PUVA - a combination of medication (psoralens) and UVA treatment are the conventional treatment methods. Asian company SK-II (0800 072 1771) has two new products - Whitening Source, £65 and Whitening Mask, £55. These work by evening out patchy complexions by regulating the way melanin is dispersed in the skin and by inhibiting the production of the melanin stimulating enzyme, tyrosinase. Shiseido White Lucency Concentrated Brightening Serum, £64 (available from 18th April), fades today's pigmentation and carefully reduces the skin's melanin production to help prevent new discolouration. Phytomer Skin Lightening Treatment, from £45 (01753 856 836), is a salon treatment that works on hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage, age spots, hormonal activity and the Pill, and can be used on specific patches or all over the face.
Dilated capillaries
What is it: Dilated capillaries are caused by climate, stimulants, incorrect products, smoking and can also be hereditary. When sensitive skin is irritated, by temperature changes, spicy food, alcohol etc, the capillary veins dilate all over the face and neck. And because sensitive skins also tend to be especially fine and transparent, redness is particularly visible.
How to treat it: 'Protect the skin from harsh conditions such as wind, sun and hot temperatures, and cut back on hot drinks, smoking, alcohol and spicy foods,' recommends skincare guru Danne Montague King. Elizabeth King, Principal of the Dr Hauschka Training School, suggests using products rich in rose such as Dr Hauschka Rose Day Cream, £16 for 30ml (01386 792 642) which includes Vitamin K to help strengthen the weakened capillary walls. Gatineau Serenite Anti-Redness Cream, £32.25 for 50ml (0800 731 5805), works by improving micro-circulation, allowing excess blood near the skin's surface to flow back into the system, thereby encouraging the capillaries to contract to their normal size. A more permanent option is IPL Photo-Rejuvenation, which works on broken veins and capillaries. For more information, visit smilestore.co.uk
Nutritional tips from Penny Povey: Low salt, low fat, high fibre, bilberries, buckwheat.
Supplements: Large doses of vitamin C and vitamin E.