The Somerset outpost of London's trendy Soho House, Babington House offers guests style in the country and they actually seem glad you're staying

The swan set the tone for the whole visit, really. I was transported from my London mindset driving through miles of rural Somerset that surround this grade II listed country house. But Babington House's resident swan decided that he, and not my car, would be occupying the spot right outside the front door. Edging right up to the entrance, I waited for the swan to move. He eyeballed me. I revved the engine. The swan sat down. 'This,' he was saying, 'is the way we do things round here.'

For an establishment that forms the country arm of Soho House (the club for London's high-powered media elite), you might expect Babington House to buzz with the sound of trilling mobiles and deals being clinched. How many hotel websites, for instance, include 'where to land your helicopter' instructions? But air kisses and 'ciao darling's are definite no-nos. The only sound you'll hear is the lapping of the lake, and an occasional quack from one of the ducks.

Since the 1370s, the property has been home to such splendidly monikered notables as Sir William Botreaux, Henry Monpesson and Major Norton Knatchbull. Now, for a couple of nights at least, it's home to you. No hideous 'mock-Georgian' wings have been added here. All the rooms are in either the main house itself, or outbuildings such as the Stable Block or Coach House. As you climb the mahogany staircase, pass the 15th-century stained glass window and gaze up at the Queen Anne ceilings, you feel very much at one with Major Norton.

'Luxury', in the hotel world, too often means a fake mahogany desk and a bowl of fruit. At Babington, it means what it should: a stylish, comfortable-beyond-your-dreams room, each with its own touches. You might get a Bond-villain black leather chair, or a clear plastic hang-from-the-ceiling one; a snow-white rug, or one blooming with huge red roses. The rooms' hi-tech entertainment systems (150 Sky digital channels, a selection of DVDs and CDs available from reception) are all the more fun for being housed in such a traditional setting. Surreal experiences await: until you've gazed out on the rolling lawns of an English country house while listening to Bengali FM, you haven't lived.

If you're with your partner, a room in the Coach House is ideal: downstairs you'll find the lounge and bathroom (huge slatted-wood and metallic-finish walk-in shower, free-standing or sunken bath and - biggest thrill of all - telephone in the loo). The bedroom's on the mezzanine level, reached via a spiral staircase, with a bed big enough for a modest game of croquet. If you're taking the family, you might want to upgrade to the Stable Block (bigger rooms, roof terraces, extra amenities such as microwaves and baby baths). The hotel also has a 'Little House', where between 9am and 5pm (9am to 6pm on Saturdays) they will entertain your 'Little People' free of charge (and with no need to book ahead).

With comfort levels as high as these, it would be very tempting to check into Babington and not leave your room for the entire duration of your stay. But you'd be missing out on everything else the hotel has to offer. Take a stroll around the grounds, for instance (even the wellies are provided). In one direction you'll find the church (yes, Babington has its own hotline to the Almighty), the cricket ground (which is where you land the helicopter, in case you were wondering) and, should you feel energetic, the tennis courts. Or rather, some of them. The others are on the far side of the house, as you head across the lawns towards the lake. Bridges over the lake take you to the woods, then bring you back round to the walled garden, where Babington grows the herbs they use to make the toiletries you'll find in your luxurious room which you left to start your walk about three hours ago ? It really is that sort of place. Further afield, the hotel can organise off-site jaunts such as ballooning (Hello, Richard!), golf, horse-riding or rock-climbing. Or you can keep it old-fashioned and borrow one of their bikes for a cycle ride.

But if all of this sounds too tiring, just head straight for the Cowshed, home to the hotel's gym, sauna, steam room, indoor swimming pool and outdoor swimming pool. (Both are heated, and both have the water coming right up to the top, draining away round the edges, like luxury pools do in the movies.) Seven lakeside cabins offer massages, facials, manicures, aromatherapy, reflexology, waxing ? the lot, with names that range from whimsical to precious. For instance, the quick massage (25 mins, £32) is a 'Speedy Cow'. Reflexology followed by a head massage (1hr 25 mins, £80) is a 'Holy Cow'.

When you finally get round to exploring the main house, you'll find everything you'd expect from a top-price hotel, except the intimidating atmosphere. The Babington House staff seem to have the ability, unlike their counterparts at similarly priced London establishments, to bring you a gin and tonic without looking like they'd rather have you expelled from the premises forthwith. They're friendly, helpful and only there when you want them to be.

Breakfast on the day I left provided a fitting end to the stay. Three of the ducks decided to waddle all the way up from the lake. Reaching the terrace, they came inside for a quick look round. None of the guests impressed them very much, so they headed back out. Probably off to compare notes with the swan.

Babington House
Babington Near Frome
Somerset
BA11 3RW
Tel: 01373 812266
www.babingtonhouse.co.uk
Room rates: £215 - £360 Mon to Thurs, £250 - £395 Fri and Sat. Minimum two-night stay over weekend, three over bank holiday weekends.