Stuttgart - a tour in pictures

Stuttgart, the little sister to Berlin and Munich, is more affordable and accessible than ever thanks to expanding budget flights. The city has grown-up diversions (it's the largest wine-growing city in Germany) along with child-friendly activities such as animal-spotting at the zoo and swimming in the city's sprawling mineral baths complex. Here, iVillage Travel Editor Clare Spurrell, highlights her favourite places to go, with a photo tour of the city of Stuttgart

Stuttgart is positioned in the bowl of a lush valley surrounded by vineyards and forests, close to the river Neckar, and right next to the Black Forest in Southern Germany. Stuttgart's mix of dramatic scenery, historical interest and cosmopolitan shopping and dining may surprise the newcomer. Despite much of the area being flattened during the Second World War, the palaces and historical buildings have been lovingly refurbished, leaving a city today that has a diverse culture grown from the influences of centuries of artists and free-thinkers.

Arts and culture
For art-lovers Stuttgart is a cultural hotpot of both contemporary and historical art. The State Gallery (Staatsgalerie) has an impressive new post-modern extension built by renowned architect James Stirling, with brightly coloured railings and uplighting leading into a bright green entrance hall. It is dedicated mainly to classic modern art starting with Expressionism and including modernists such as Matisse and Picasso. On Saturday evenings it is open later, allowing art-lovers to wander in after dinner and stay past midnight.

Another arty must is the Museum of Art (Kunstmuseum) which only opened in 2005. Known as 'The Cube,' it was designed by Berlin architects Hascher und Jehre, and is the shape of, well, a giant glass cube. By day it reflects the hustle and bustle of the city in front of the palace square (Schlossplatz) and by night it is illuminated against the night sky.

Parents can leave their children at the drop-in facility where kids spend the day doing activities like painting, while their parents look at the art or head out for some shopping. The Museum of Art is bright, modern and spacious, and needs a good half day to fully appreciate it. I was most impressed with the Otto Dix collection, the famous German Expressionist who had much of his work destroyed by Hitler. There was a room dedicated to the paintings he had done of his wife Martha, which documents their marriage and includes some graphic, but moving, paintings of his children being born.

Sekt education
Fifteen minutes out of Stuttgart town centre on the train is Esslingden, a small town left untouched by bombers in World War II, with much of its medieval architecture intact. Its narrow lanes are reminiscent of Baron Bomburst's Vulgaria in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, with picturesque pink buildings and half-timbered houses fronted by colourful window-box-lined shuttered windows.

Famous for its vineyards and winemaking, the town is home to the famous Kessler distillery - which is the oldest producers of Sekt (German champagne, similar to Spain's Cava). A guided tour of the cellars takes place four times a day - these tours are so popular, they're booked as far as a month in advance. Don't miss the amazing fungus that grows across the ceiling of the final holding cellar, an essential part of the fermentation process, and the complimentary tasting down in the caves.

In the upper rooms, which date back to the 17th century, visitors who forgo the tour can still sip a glass of Sekt for around 2 Euros, surrounded by portraits of six generations of Kesslers. The 'Sekt in the City' nights that take place every Thursday at the distillery have proved popular with the locals, and make for a fun and social night out.
Guided tour of the cellars: Adults 7.50 Euros.

Animal attractions
A highlight for kids (and childlike adults like me) is Wilhelma, the largest zoological and botanical gardens in Europe. Give yourself at least half a day, as Wilhelma is the home to over 9,000 animals, including lions and tigers, polar bears and spider monkeys, who leap up to 12 metres in their open-air enclosure. Try to schedule in a visit during the sea lions' feeding time and the elephants' bath time.

You can also wander through the vast Moorish grounds, see exotic trees and orchids, stroll round Europe's largest magnolia grove or check out the water lily pond that measures over 1,000 square metres. There is good wheelchair access and thin parallel channels run down the stairs so pushchairs can be wheeled up and down easily.

Get wet
Stuttgart is known for the natural spring situated in the Bad Cannstatt district and the adjacent quarter of Berg. Every day, 19 individual springs produce over 22 million litres of natural mineral water.

Visitors can take the waters in the Leuze mineral baths complex after a visit to the Zoological and Botanical gardens at Wilhelma right next door. The vast complex consists of three indoor mineral spas, two outdoor spas, mineral water saunas, solariums, a cafe, sport areas and playgrounds. The Leuze can get busy, but it is absolutely massive and there are lots of kids, so it makes a great add-on to a day at the Zoological and Botanical gardens.

Once inside, you'll find two concentrated carbonated medicinal springs and one mineral spring, all of which are used like swimming pools. The pools range in temperatures; start at the Kalts Bad Halle where you have a hot shower before leaping into the cold water pool which is absolutely frigid (it feels a bit like swimming through an ice cube). As your body acclimatises, the water is positively refreshing. Look out for bathers paddling around with mugs of steaming tea. After this, swim through the plastic gates and find refuge in the warmer mineral water baths - or head to the larger pool where you will find massaging water chutes, sun loungers, steam rooms and a sauna.

See stars
A must for opera and ballet lovers is a visit to the Stuttgart Opera House. The opera house is home to the one of the world's leading dance ensembles: the Stuttgart Ballet Company which became legendary through its much acclaimed choreographer, John Cranko.

Compared with stuffy old theatres and opera houses that command a respectful hush, Stuttgart's venue was animated and relaxed when I visited. In the grand main room, kids were hanging off the chairs, swinging from the banisters and cheering and clapping along to the music of Swan Lake. The ballet was played by the resident orchestra and acted out by a group of local school kids dressed up in costume with elaborately painted faces. Children's open days such as these occur once or twice a year; visitors can also choose from a diverse and impressive grown-up programme, including Don Giovanni, Madame Butterfly and The Marriage of Figaro. Visit www.staatstheater.stuttgart.de for more information.

For budding astronomers, head over to the Carl Zeiss Planetarium; Europe's most modern star theatre. Here you can admire the constellations from this uber-futuristic building situated right next to Willy-Brandt-Str. 25 station. The first show starts at 10am, and once inside you can marvel in the boundless depths of the universe, the Southern Cross or the midnight sun over the Antarctic.

What to eat
Without a doubt you should have lunch or dinner at The Cube restaurant at the top of the Museum of Art. Not just for the impressive views across the valley and city, but also for the incredible food. I ate a delicious traditional meal of veal and spaetzle, which is a pasta-like mix of flour, water, egg and salt, washed down with the local Stuttgarter Hoffbrau beer. This lively restaurant makes a great rejuvenating midday shopping rest stop.

Local cuisine
Maultaschen is a popular Swabian dish ('Swabian' refers to the region in Germany of Stuttgart) served by locals, specifically at Easter time. Similar to ravioli, Maultaschen consists of spinach-filled pasta pillows fortified with ground veal, pork, beef, bacon, or sausage. It was said to have been created by bored cooks during Lent, to hide ground pork and spinach in a doughy ball. I ate a particularly good Maultaschen in the Balmicher Bau - a traditional Swabian restaurant in Esslingden.

Shopping
Stuttgart has all the usual suspects (from Cartier to Vuitton) near Schiller Square and at the big shopping centre, Breunlinger. For something a bit unusual, head to Merz and Benzing in the Market Hall (Markthalle) inbetween the old castle and the marketplace. This is the sort of place where you can pick up an assortment of unusual bits and bobs that you never dreamed existed. It's great for gifts, especially at Christmas when you can pick up an assortment of glassware, jewellery, furniture and household goods, and delicious Hochland coffee plus books for children and adults. The art nouveau style Market Hall itself sells a wide assortment of exotic delights, with fresh fruit and vegetables and herbs and spices from across the globe - ideal browsing for gastro fans.

Over the Christmas season, Stuttgart is the home to one of the oldest and most beautiful European Christmas markets, held at the Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. Traditionally it opens on the last Thursday of November and includes a 'magical fairytale land', merry-go-rounds, concerts and carols and other atmospheric treats. Grab a cup of mulled wine and watch the children on the ice rink.


Smart Tips
On arriving, get hold of the Stuttgart Plus card (17 Euros) which is valid for three consecutive days. This will give you access to many of the museums for free, plus free travel on the public transport systems throughout the city, undoubtedly the best way to get around.

More information
I stayed at the hotel Schlossgarten hotel, well located right in the city centre. For prices and availability, visit www.hotelschlossgarten.com.

I flew with no-frills airline Germanwings, who fly daily from London Stansted to Stuttgart from as little as £13 each way. For further information visit: www.germanwings.com.

Booking options
Flights can be booked at www.germanwings.com, by calling +44 (0) 870 252 12 50 (GMT 7:00 - 20:00 hrs)