| Scent and sensibility
I have picked up various maladies on my travels in places like India or Bolivia, so was pretty surprised to leave this small, manicured little village in the Cotswolds with yet another to add to the list - this time 'olfactory exhaustion' - or nasal fatigue - a common complaint amongst perfumers learning the trade, as I was to discover. I was visiting the Cotswolds Perfumery, which for the last three years has been running one-day courses on how to make your very own scent, run by proprietor John Stephen - in-house perfumer and expert 'nose'. The day starts at 9.15 and runs until around 4pm, with small groups of no more than ten people maximum. The day begins with a light introduction to your nose - to whom I discovered I was almost a complete stranger.
John taught us to separate our sense of smell from our other senses and previous knowledge. This was done with a short walk around his perfume gardens at the back of the perfumery, where we were asked to smell various herbs and flowers before describing them using words such as 'woody, green, lemony, aniseed'. In doing so we started to improve our 'scent memory'. In much the same way a connoisseur pinpoints grapes and vintage, an expert perfumer uses his or her scent memory to isolate the various scents, or 'notes', that make up a specific perfume. But beware, saturate your nose with too much smelling and it will easily tire, increasing your risk to olfactory exhaustion - a condition that temporarily effects your smelling abilities, with obvious consequences to the final scent you are hoping to achieve. We moved on to understanding the genealogy and classifications of various perfumes, which range from floral scents such as Anais Anais to heavier Aldehydic classifications of scents such as Chanel No 5. We were encouraged to start thinking about which classification we would want the perfumes we would be making to come under. As I was planning on going out that night, I chose the Chypre (or Greek) classification - which is a heavy, sweet, long-lasting perfume - ideal for evenings. Up next was a quick, but delicious, lunch stop at the local restaurant, the Dial House where I had a chance to properly meet some of my fellow students. John told me that there were some men who came on the course, but I got the impression that these courses were largely a female domain and, as it turned out, popular with sisters. Indeed, Diane - a local seamstress - had come with her two sisters-in-law who all also lived in the area, while Patricia had bought her sister Julie - an accountant-slash-mother living in Essex - on the course as a birthday present. Before long we were all back in the lab ready to start mixing our very own perfumes. Following a health and safety brief, we were faced with an array of different smelling oils and extractions. Most of the bottles smelt lovely and the room was soon heady with pleasant aromas like lavender and patchouli, others however, smelled less lovely, namely civet - which, quite frankly, just smells of poo. However, we were told that scents that mimic animalistic odours, like faeces or sweat, have a pheromone effect when used in (very) small quantities within a perfume. John explained to us how to construct a perfume. In essence, each perfume has base notes, which are longer lasting, heavier scents that make up the main theme of the perfume, and are usually woody flavours like Oakmoss or Sandalwood. Added to this are medium notes which are slightly more volatile, and the top notes which are the least tenacious and include many of the citrus and floral scents. Using pipettes we started to experiment with mixing the different oils and extractions together to find out which ones go, and in which quantities they worked best together. My first attempt made my eyes water, as I realised I've used too much civet. My second attempt? Still too much civet. After my third attempt, I decide to ditch the civet. Before long it was four o'clock and my perfume had been mixed, bottled, labelled and packaged up (I called it 'Civet Bang'. And I blame olfactory exhaustion). The day seemed to have flown by, and I left feeling like I had not only learnt something new, but had great fun doing it too. I would recommend this course to anyone who wants to do something a bit different with a close friend or family member. It's not only great fun working together creatively, but you also walk away with a brand new skill. And a bottle of your very own signature perfume! For more information visit www.cotswold-perfumery.co.uk
Where to stayI stayed in the neighbouring village Morton-in-Marsh at the Manor House Hotel. This cosy and charming old English hotel has comfortable rooms and impressive gardens with a terrace from the restaurant which is popular for alfresco dining in the summer. They recently opened an extension in the form of the Mulberry restaurant, which has an impressive wine list and a gourmet menu that includes dishes such as crab risotto with an avocado sorbet, or loin of Lighthorn lamb with parsnip puree and red wine jus. The Manor House hotel is about eight miles away from Bourton-on-the-Water, ideal if you have a car. For more information and availability visit www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk |