Planning a romantic getaway this winter? If the adventure of a deserted mountain, après-ski relaxation at a slope-side pub and romantic moments by the fire back at the room sounds tempting, then the following boutique ski hotspots in Vermont, USA might be just the answer
For a ski trip to be ultimately satisfying, you need to dodge the pitfalls: crowded mountains and a cookie-cutter experience that can sap some of the charm out of your first trip a deux. The solution: small, 'specialist', or boutique, mountains situated close to the larger resorts. You can experience hassle-free togetherness on the boutique mountain by day - and by night still access all the activities and culinary experiences that the larger resort mountains have to offer.
Choose your ideal holiday:- More than just skiing, skiing skiing
- Work hard and play hard on the mountain
- Get-away-from-it-all ski break
The boutique ski mountain: Spruce Peak, Stowe Vermont
Spruce Peak is part of the Stowe Ski Resort, which includes the larger Mount Mansfield. Known as 'the beginner mountain,' Spruce boasts a friendly, helpful staff of instructors as well as more green (easy) trails than Mansfield. But if you are up for more of a challenge, Spruce also has intermediate blues and a few expert blacks that wind along tree-spotted trails and plummet through more tricky terrain - and because the mountain is less crowded than Mansfield, you'll get more runs in.
Spruce is also known as the sunny mountain - its southern exposure keeps most trails in the light for most of the day - an added bonus on chilly New England days when the sun's warmth counts for a lot.
For information on lessons, rentals and rates, visit www.stowe.com
The resort ski mountain: Mount Mansfield, Stowe Vermont
Mount Mansfield is the home mountain of the Burton snowboard company. Owner Jake Burton, one of the pioneers of the sport of snowboarding, rides the mountain weekly. Mt. Mansfield boasts Vermont's highest peak at 4,395 feet and the legendary 'front four' trails - some of the most challenging skiing in the east. So if you, or your partner, are at significantly different levels, the expert amongst you can spend some time navigating blacks at Mansfield, the novice at Spruce, and you can reconnect at any point during the day since the two mountains are so close together. Mansfield also boasts the world's fastest high-speed, 8-passenger gondola, which drops riders at the Cliff House restaurant, where they can enjoy a 4-star meal before skiing down. Or, make it your last stop for the day, and order cheese fondue and the Austrian Gluwein - a hot, spiced red wine - before riding the gondola back down.
The nightlife: Stowe Mountain Resort is a 5-mile drive from the tiny town of Stowe, arguably one of the most charming villages in all of New England. Much of Stowe's winter life is centred around the ski experience, so you'll find plenty of apres-ski taverns. Locals like to hang out at The Matterhorn, an unpretentious bar with good-natured bartenders and a kitchen that serves everything from sandwiches to sushi. The Rusty Nail is also a popular hotspot. Both venues offer live music.
Ski free days? Stowe's charms have been luring an A-list crowd from as far back as the 1960s, when Jackie O herself could be found shopping at local curiosity shops. You'll find stores selling hand-crafted furniture, paintings, jewellery, and Vermont's own-grown cheese and wine. If you don't want to spend all your time indoors, head outside for snowshoeing. Stowe is the birthplace of modern snowshoeing a sport that takes you into picturesque locales, of which Vermont has many. And if you're up for a less challenging outdoor experience, consider dog sledding: after helping to harness the dogs, you can let them do the work of pulling you through gorgeous snow-capped scenery at dusk. Check out Eden Dogsledding for more information.
Where to stay:
- Topnotch Spa and Resort. If you're looking for the complete pampering experience - a full-service spa, turndown service, a 24-hour concierge - Topnotch won't disappoint. The resort and spa, which recently underwent an expansion and renovation, offers everything from hot and cold stone treatments to cosmetic skin treatments (including Botox) administered by an on-call dermatologist. They offer couples' packages (breakfast in bed and couples' massages included) and last-minute getaway packages. The resort will also arrange sleigh rides, snowshoeing or ice-skating excursions.
- Brass Lantern Inn. Get a real feel for a quaint New England home at this inn, where the owners have renovated a 19th-century farmhouse and carriage barn-cum-guesthouse. All of the guestrooms are furnished with antiques and have an adjoining bathroom - some also offer a fireplace. A country breakfast (omelettes with Vermont cheddar, blueberry pancakes) and an afternoon tea by the living-room fireplace comes with the price of the room.
Where to eat:
- Restaurant Swisspot (128 Main Street, Stowe Village, 802-253-4622). This Swiss-chalet-style eatery is the place to go for fondue.
- Trapp Family Lodge. Yes, it's that Trapp family. The famous musically-inclined family emigrated from Europe to Stowe, VT in 1939 and opened the lodge to guests in 1948. Today, the newly renovated lodge (the original burned down in 1980) is run by Johannes Trapp, the youngest of the Trapp children, who can be found chatting with guests in the lounge on any given night. The formal dining room serves a mix of standard Austrian and American dinner favourites, as well as a breakfast buffet. For lighter fare, check out the Austrian tea room from 11:30 to 4:30.
The boutique ski mountain: Pico, Killington, VT.
Pico Mountain is part of the sprawling ski area known as Killington Resort which consists of seven mountains in all. Pico benefits from many of the things that make Killington a premier New England resort - including its expansive snowmaking system - but it saves you from the hassle of a large mountain system: getting lost or separated due to a dizzying network of lifts, trails and base camps. Its 50 trails of moguls, glades, double-diamonds and gentle greens all lead back to one main base camp, perfect for the couple who may want to go their separate ways on the mountain and reconnect after each run. The base lodge is warm, inviting and traditional, and Killington fans often cite Pico's Last Run Lounge as their favourite watering hole.
The resort ski mountain: Killington.
Even if you decide not to ski at Killington, take a drive along Killington Road to the K-1 Lodge just to get a sense of the vastness and variety that is Killington with its 1001 acres of trails. For couples staying longer than two or three days, it might be worth spending a day on Killington after getting acquainted with Pico. But be warned: choose a clear meeting place before you head down the mountain, or you may spend part of your day looking for your loved one!.
The nightlife:
- The Wobbly Barn: The Wobbly Barn is perhaps the best-known and most frequented apres-ski bar and restaurant in Killington, and was voted number one bar/restaurant in the east by readers of SKI Magazine. It features a laid-back, full-service steak-house restaurant downstairs and a bar with live music upstairs. The crowd is 20s, 30s and 40s, so you won't feel out of place no matter what decade you're in.
- The Picklebar. This is more of a nightclub than a pub, attracting a younger crowd (mostly 20-somethings). The Picklebar offers live music every weekend night, and if you've had too much to drink, take advantage of Barrel Rider, their free-ride-home-service for inebriated patrons.
Where to stay:
- Fox Hollow Condominiums: Granted, you may not need the extra bedroom unless you're travelling with another couple (the renovated 2-bedroom/2 bath condos are far nicer than the 1-bedroom units), but you'll still get your money's worth, thanks to the fully-operating fireplace, full kitchen, and spacious, modern living area, plus the master bath comes with a two-person Jacuzzi tub. The condos are next to an entrance to the Appalachian trail for snowshoeing aficionados and a stone's throw from Pico ski resort.
- The Vermont Inn. A ten-minute drive from Killington, this quaint traditional guesthouse is everything you'd expect a New England inn to be. From elegant, cosy guestrooms to an old-fashioned games room - and modern touches like a hot tub and wireless internet access - you're sure to have a unique and relaxing stay. The inn's award-winning restaurant features continental and Vermont-specific cuisine.
Where to eat:
- Hemingway's Restaurant. Don't let its place on Killington's busy main strip - populated by dive bars and low-end eateries - fool you: this restaurant offers a fine dining experience that consistently rates high with locals and visitors alike. The menu offers a number of organic ingredients, fresh East Coast catch, and Vermont goodies - apples, cheese and even rabbit.
The get-away-from-it-all ski holiday
The boutique ski mountain: Bear Creek Mountain Club
Bear Creek Mountain, in the heart of Vermont's Green Mountains, isn't flashy, large or popular - and it doesn't want to be. Working hard to become an exclusive mountain club with lifetime members, Bear Creek is all about staying small and catering to an exclusive clientele. Luckily, you don't have to be a member to ski here as they welcome day-trippers from Monday to Wednesday. The benefits of Bear Creek are many if you're looking for a slow-paced, quiet and secluded mountain experience. Lift lines are non-existent, and there's only one chairlift, so you'll get to know the 15 trails (from easy to expert) quite well. The restaurant at the club house is reason enough to work up an appetite on the mountain: New England clam chowder and an organic ground beef burger for lunch will invigorate you for more runs or a lesson from one of their expert instructors.
Off-the-mountain activities:
Woodstock, VT. About ten miles from Bear Creek- and 30 miles from Killington - lies the picturesque town of Woodstock, VT (not to be confused with the hippie vortex that is Woodstock, NY). Woodstock was settled in 1768 and practically defines New England charm, from the covered bridge in the centre of the town to the surrounding farms that lead into the Green Mountains. Art galleries, antiquing, ice skating, sleigh riding - there's plenty to keep you busy in this slow-paced all-American town.
Where to stay:
- (see also Killington accommodation options)
- The Woodstock Inn and Resort, Woodstock, VT. Turn-down service, plush robes and 'Vermont-chic' decor gives this inn a warm and modern feel. You can also book spa treatments or yoga classes through their fitness centre.
- The Jackson House, Woodstock, VT. The 1890 mansion is on the National Registry of Historic Places and the antique furnishings in the well-appointed rooms do justice to the inn's heritage. Their restaurant is nationally known, attracting talented, up-and-coming chefs.
- The Hawk Inn Plymouth, VT. Situated down the road from Bear Creek is this 50-room inn, which also offers two-room mountain villas if you want an even more secluded experience. The Inn has an adjoining spa with an outdoor swimming pool.
Where to eat:
- Bentley's Restaurant, Woodstock, VT. A relaxed, busy lunch and dinner spot with dark-wood-and-brass-railing decor that Gourmet Magazine has called 'the best luncheon spot in all of New England'.