If you're put off by the thought of tackling your own tiling, a kitchen splashback is the ideal way to learn. And there is a wonderful array of tiles and mosaic tiles available to choose from. As long as the wall is in sound condition, you can tile straight onto the surface, but be sure to remove any wallpaper first First Steps: Making a tile gauge A tile gauge is used to plan the positions of the tiles and ensure that they are symmetrical. Make a tile gauge from a piece of 25 x 50mm (1 x 2in) batten. Lay the tiles and spacers along the edge of the wood and mark the positions of the tile joints on the timber. You can now hold this batten against the wall, upright and across the surface, to show the tile positions. Mark the wall to show the position of the first row of full tiles above the worktop. Lay a spirit level on top of the gauge to make sure it is horizontal. If there is a window sill in front of the sink, adjust the position so that the top complete row of tiles is flush with the window recess. Time to complete job: Half a day Approximate budget: From £25. Tools and materials Spirit level, tape measure, chinagraph pencil, tile saw, waterproof adhesive/grout, sponge, squeegee, tile cutting jig, timber battens - 50 x 25mm (2 x 1in) approx masonry nails, hammer, tile spacers, dry cloth, sealant

Preparing to tile To hold the tiles in a straight line, temporarily nail a wooden batten to the wall so that the top edge is along the line you have marked with the tile gauge. Nail the second batten at right angles to the first, along the left-hand edge of the area to be tiled. Check it's vertical with a spirit level. Start tiling from the corner formed by the two guide battens. Use a notched spreader (provided with the adhesive/grout) to form even ribbons over about half a square metre of the wall. Tiling Place the tiles onto the adhesive and use small sliding movements to position each tile in the correct position. Press spacers into each joint as you work across the row. Fix all the whole tiles and wipe off any excess adhesive with a damp sponge before it sets. Leave the splashback to dry. Tip: To check that the tiles will form a flat, smooth surface, lay the spirit level across them. You may need to add a dab of extra adhesive/grout if a tile is below the level of the surrounding tiles. Cutting tiles to fit Remove the battens and cut the remaining tiles to fill in the gaps. Score the glazed surface of the tiles and break them along this line. A tile cutting jig is the easiest way of making straight cuts. You may need a tile saw to make curves or fit around awkward shapes. Mark the cut line on the tile surface and hold the tile upright in the jaws of a portable workbench to keep it steady as you cut with the saw. Grouting When all the tiles are fixed, wipe off any excess adhesive and leave to dry. Force more adhesive/grout into the joints with a squeegee. Polishing Use a grouting tool to create a uniform finish. Wipe off any grout left on the tile surfaces with a damp sponge. When the grouting has hardened, polish the splashback with a dry cloth. Sealing Squeeze a bead of flexible kitchen and bathroom sealant along the joint between the bottom row of tiles and the sink or worktop.