|
Olive's deputy food editor Janine Ratcliffe shops for the very best March has to offer in farmers' markets and supermarkets
Reproduced from March 07 issue of Olive magazine. This month's issue on sale now. Subscribe now and save 40%
Recipes: Janine Ratcliffe Photographs: Michael Paul
March is the start of a barren lull between the end of the winter root veg and the start of spring vegetables, known as the 'hungry gap'. Still around and good are chicory, green cabbages and leeks. Scottish, rope-grown mussels will be here until the end of the month, as will scallops.
Forced rhubarb is around but homegrown fruit is pretty scarce, so go for the zing of imported lemons, limes and oranges.
Mussels with garlic and herb breadcrumbs
45 minutes
EASY
This is lovely eaten with crusty bread as a starter but you could also serve them as canapes with drinks. Mussels are at their best in the colder months so look out for ones grown locally.
mussels 2 kg, cleaned
butter 50g, frozen and grated
fresh breadcrumbs 50g
garlic 1 clove, crushed
parsley a small bunch, chopped
lemon 1, cut into wedges to serve
crusty bread warmed, to serve
- Make sure all the mussels are alive before you cook them - if any are open, tap them on the work surface, if they don't close, throw them away.
- Heat a large, wide pan, tip in the mussels with a splash of water, cover and cook until opened. Throw away any that won't open. Remove the top shell from each mussel and discard. Mix the butter, breadcrumbs, garlic and parsley. Put a layer of half mussel shells on a baking tray. Sprinkle breadcrumbs over each one then flash under a very hot grill until just golden. Serve with lemon and crusty bread. Serves 2
Purple sprouting broccoli with proscuitto and duck egg
30 minutes
EASY
Purple sprouting broccoli works really well with the punchy flavours of salty proscuitto and parmesan. Early season purple sprouting broccoli can be cooked whole but later stuff may need to have the stalk peeled.
proscuitto or Parma ham 8 slices
purple sprouting broccoli 500g
olive oil
balsamic vinegar
parmesan or Grana Padano a handful, grated
duck or hen's eggs 4, poached
- Grill the proscuitto until crisp. Steam the broccoli until just tender, but still bright green - test a stalk with the point of a knife. Divide between 4 shallow bowls and drizzle with a little olive oil and balsamic. Top the broccoli with pieces of crisp proscuitto and parmesan. Poach the duck eggs in a frying pan of simmering water for 3-4 minutes or until cooked to your liking (2-3 minutes for hen's eggs). Lift out, drain and add one to each bowl. Sprinkle with sea salt flakes and black pepper and serve. Serves 4
Duck eggs
Duck egg yolks are larger and richer and the whites more gelatinous than hen's eggs so they will create superior custards and meringues. Fry, poach or boil them (the large yolk is perfect for dipping) in exactly the same way as ordinary eggs but be careful not to overcook the whites as they can become a bit rubbery. Serve soft-boiled duck eggs with Maldon sea salt and purple sprouting broccoli for dipping; use the yolks for the richest creme brulee; fry smoked haddock in a little butter and top with a poached duck egg and some chopped chives. GO WITH cream, chives, bacon, smoked fish, broccoli.
Purple sprouting broccoli
A member of the cabbage family, purple sprouting broccoli has purple leaves and flower heads and a long stem, all of which are edible. The English season is in full swing in March and lasts until the end of April. Look for firm stems; any bending means it's past its best. Serve steamed and tossed with butter and parmesan; cook with chilli, garlic and olive oil and stir through pasta; bake in a gratin with cream, cheese and onions goes with chilli, garlic, cream, pasta, cheese.
|
|
Salt-roast chicken with spiced carrot coleslaw
1 hour
EASY
This coleslaw has a warm dressing, which helps the carrot soak up the flavours of the cumin and mustard. Look out for younger, sweeter new season carrots when buying. A mandolin is useful for all the shredding.
chicken thighs 8
sea salt flakes 2 tbsp
small carrots 500g, shredded
white cabbage ½ small, shredded
red onion 1, halved and thinly sliced
olive oil 2 tbsp
black mustard seeds 2 tsp
cumin seeds 1 tbsp
white wine vinegar 2 tbsp
coriander a small bunch of leaves
- Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Put the chicken on a rack over a roasting tray. Sprinkle a generous amount of salt onto each piece then roast for about 40-50 minutes until the chicken is crisp and golden.
- Meanwhile, put the carrot, cabbage and onion in a large bowl. Heat the olive oil in a pan and add the mustard seeds and cumin, cook until toasted and starting to pop then add the vinegar and season well. Pour the dressing over the veg and toss together with the coriander. Serve the coleslaw with the chicken. Serves 4
Braised Chinese pork with sesame spring greens
2½ hours (including 2 hours in the oven)
EASY
This recipe looks lengthy but it takes care of itself once in the oven. Spring greens are very tender at this time of year and just need brief cooking.
garlic 2 cloves, crushed
root ginger a thumb-sized piece, grated
soy sauce 2 tbsp
Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry 3 tbsp
star anise 1
Chinese five spice 1 tsp
cinnamon stick 1
brown sugar 2 tbsp
pork shoulder 1kg, fat trimmed and cut into chunks
Sesame spring greens
spring greens 500g, washed and stalks removed, shredded
sesame oil
sesame seeds 1 tbsp, toasted
- Heat the oven to 150C/fan 130C/gas 2. Mix the first 8 ingredients together with 300ml water and put in a large casserole with a lid. Add the pork and stir. Cover and cook for 2 hours.
- Remove from the oven and scoop out the meat. Fast boil the sauce until reduced and thick enough to coat the pork.
- Put the pork back in and toss in the sauce to heat through.
- Meanwhile, heat a large pan or wok and add the greens and a splash of water. Cover and cook until wilted. Dress with sesame oil and seeds and serve with the pork. Serves 4
|
|
Sea trout and herb fishcakes
45 minutes + chilling
a little effort
Because they head out to sea to feed, wild sea trout or salmon trout often have much more flavour than farmed trout and the firm, pink flesh is perfect for making these fishcakes. Their season runs from March to July.
sea trout 500g skinless fillet
potatoes 500g floury ones, such as King Edward or maris piper, peeled
spring onions 6, finely shredded
butter
soft herbs, such as chives and parsley, a good handful, finely chopped
lemon 2, 1 zested, 1 cut into wedges
egg 1 beaten
fresh breadcrumbs 100g
oil for frying
- Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Put the fish in a baking dish with a splash of water, cover tightly with foil then bake for 15-20 minutes until just cooked through. Cool and flake into large chunks.
- Boil the potatoes until tender then mash with lots of seasoning. Cook the spring onions in a little butter until softened then add to the mash with the herbs and lemon zest and mix in. Gently mix in the trout then leave to cool a little. Form into 8 cakes then dip each first into the beaten egg, then the breadcrumbs. Chill for an hour to set.
- Heat a little oil in a non-stick frying pan. Cook the fishcakes for 3-4 minutes each side until golden and crisp. Keep warm in a low oven while you finish the rest. Serve with dressed salad leaves and lemon wedges. Serves 4
|
|
Sweet potato gratin
1 hour
EASY
This is a great Sunday lunch side dish. The orange-fleshed sweet potatoes look the nicest so just scratch the skin a little when buying to be sure of the colour.
double cream 284ml carton
whole nutmeg a good grating
chilli flakes a pinch
garlic 1 clove, crushed
rosemary 2 sprigs, needles stripped off and chopped
sweet potatoes 1kg, peeled and sliced
- Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Put all the ingredients except the sweet potatoes in a small pan, season really well and bring to just below boiling point. Arrange the sweet potato slices in a shallow ovenproof dish and pour over the infused cream. Bake for 30-40 minutes until the potato is tender and the top golden and bubbling. Serves 4
|
|
| |