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Chicago isn't the first place I think of when I think of the States, and I'd never really considered it as a shopping venue, but having just returned from a long weekend there, I'm already planning a return trip!
For me, there's something very special about cities built on water. They seem more relaxed somehow, not in a sleepy, land-that-time-forgot kind of way, but enjoying a tolerance and laissez-faire attitude that can get lost in landlocked places (think Barcelona or Brighton and you'll know what I mean). Although Chicago's water is Lake Michigan, this is so huge that it's almost like being by the sea.
There's a beach within walking distance of the city centre and Navy Pier has carousels, a 15-storey high Ferris wheel and even mini-golf if you need to get your seaside fix. Trivia buffs might also like to know that Chicago was home to George Ferris, who invented the Ferris wheel as part of the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893. It stood 250 feet high and had 36 cars, each of which could carry 60 people.
Strong pound equals shopping! But, as the exchange rate is so strong at the moment, I had come here to shop and I wasn't disappointed. In the downtown area there are the department stores, Macy's and Bloomingdale's, which somehow epitomise America. In a sign of the times, Chicago's old staple, Marshall Fields, home of the world famous Frango mints, has now been taken over by Macy's, but the building itself remains an architectural gem, most notably for its Tiffany-domed atrium.
One of the major differences about shopping in the States, as far as I can see, is the abundance of local boutiques which allow the shopper to explore their more individual tastes. True, the High Streets abound with all the usual suspects, Gap, Abercrombie and Fitch, Levi, Diesel, Urban Outfitters, Old Navy (Gap-style clothes but with a cheaper price tag), where you can pick up the same stuff as you can at home at a much more reasonable price, but there are many smaller shops stocking funky clothes and jewellery made by local designers. We were lucky enough to team up with Melissa Turner who showed us where to find these gems.
Ambassador of shopping Melissa has a dream job. She's My Chicago's Shopping Ambassador, and apart from keeping her finger on the pulse of the hottest new trends from local designers, she co-ordinates the annual fashion fair, Fashion Focus Chicago, which takes place each autumn. This year's event is from 9-14 October and promises to link fashion, sculpture, architecture and nature (watch out for vertical runways, and moving sculptures in Millennium Park). Showcasing new designers and fashion students, you can expect to see some extreme fashion at this event.
We joined Melissa for a tour of the Bucktown and Wicker Park areas of Chicago. These up-and-coming areas are edgier and less gentrified than downtown and are home to many local artists and designers, lending the place a Bohemian feel. For me, one of the lovely things about the designer shops was the lack of pretension. In London, I can feel intimidated walking into a designer shop, knowing they will only stock clothes that look good on size zero pre-pubescent girls. Here, however, they are much friendlier and more realistic about body sizes!
A personal favourite was Malabar, at 1880 N Damen Avenue, where the funky clothes were all very wearable and stylish. Owner Claudia Kleiner is originally from Venuzuela and named the shop after her grandmother's favourite flower. She explained that she doesn't tend to restock items so that once they are gone, they're gone, virtually guaranteeing you an original look. Her bikinis and swimwear range were particularly popular, as was her jewellery which had caught the eye of Eva Longoria, among others.
Others I particularly liked were Michelle Tan, whose range includes very feminine skirts with soft fabrics and polka dots, P45 which, despite its somewhat off-putting name, held collections from many different up and coming designers and had fantastic shoes, and Helen Yi, whose ultra-chic style was more familiar but managed to combine contemporary ideas with more couture design concepts. The local designers seemed to operate a kind of mutual support system, pointing customers in the right direction for other styles if they had nothing suitable and all the shops seemed friendly and welcoming.
Where to eat As everyone knows, shopping makes you hungry and there are plenty of places to suit every budget. If it's an instant fix you're after, head to Piece at 1927 W North Avenue in Wicker Park. This is a micro brewery and thin crust pizza joint, with a kind of spacious loft feel. I'm not usually a fan of pizza, but it was very good and we sampled the Golden Arm beer - a light-brewed Kolsch beer (that'll be lager to you and me!) which went down a treat.
If sushi's your thing, hop in a cab and go to Sushi Samba at 504 North Wells. I admit I was dubious when they said they served a blend of Peruvian, Brazilian and Japanese sushi, but I was soon won over (Vince Vaughn is a fan of the place, so it must be good!). I particularly enjoyed the tiny crispy crabs which you give a squirt of lime then crunch whole and the yellowtail tuna sashimi. If you're with a group of friends, order the cocktail samplers, which come served in small glass on a kind of mini candelabra for dramatic effect!
In the evening, splurge on a gourmet feast at the Shanghai Terrace of the Peninsula Hotel at 108 East Superior Street. This sumptuous hotel plays host to Gwyneth Paltrow when she's in town, so you can imagine just how gorgeous it is. The dim sum is out of this world (be sure to try the scallop shu mai, which is absolutely delicious) and the herbal chicken tea which is a bit like a consomme but flavoured with cordyceps - a tasty root that looks a bit like a caterpillar but is apparently very good for your throat and lungs.
If you're a hardened carnivore, head to David Burke's Primehouse, in The James Hotel - an all-American steakhouse with a difference. All the cows are sired by their very own bull, which are then treated with Himalayan salt and matured on site. You can choose from different cuts that have been aged for different periods of time. For example, you can order a steak that's been hanging for up to 84 days. These extremely tasty steaks were as tender as you could hope for and the place has a boisterous yet relaxed atmosphere.
Home of the Blues For nightlife, Chicago is the home of the Blues, so a visit to a Blues club is a must. We went to Kingston Mines at 2548 N. Halsted Street. This is one of the oldest and largest clubs in Chicago and had two bars with stages playing non-stop solid electric blues. Almost opposite is B.L.U.E. - a much smaller venue with more great music. The atmosphere here is more intimate and the stage is so small that not all the musicians can fit on it at once!
As you would expect in a big city, Chicago has many bars and nightclubs, and they cater for different styles and tastes. Rockit Bar and Grill on 22 W Hubbard, is a lively, friendly place that serves gourmet Bloody Marys. It's open during the day for lunch and brunch on a Sunday and there's often live music. J Bar at 610 North Rush Street is a small, trendy bar with cubist furniture and cool clientele.
Another Chicago tradition you should indulge in is a visit to Ina's for breakfast. Based at 1235 West Randolph Street, Ina's been serving good, home-cooked food since 1991. She explained her philosophy of supporting the local community and buying all her products locally. Try her cornmeal black bean scrapple, a dense savoury porridge that sets into a cake and is fried (sounds bad I know, but tastes really good) served with eggs, or her breakfast frittata.
Where to stay
We stayed at the Hard Rock Hotel at 230 N Michigan Avenue. This hotel is in the historic Carbide and Carbon Building and is an Art Deco landmark. Don't be put off by the dark lobby area, the rooms are light and spacious, and you'll find rock memorabilia on each floor.
Need to know
Get more shopping tips from Melissa Turner at www.gochicago.com, where you can download a free podcast.
Take a greeter tour
Get your own tour guide with a greeter! These Chicago natives give you an insider's look at Chicago's many vibrant and unique neighbourhoods. Find out more at www.chicagogreeter.com
United Fact Box:
Everyday low fares are available at www.unitedairlines.co.uk or by calling 08458 444 777. From London Heathrow, United operates frequent daily services to key U.S. gateways at Washington DC, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Chicago.
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