Turf or seed?

Whether you choose turf or seed, the secret to a beautiful lawn lies in the preparation, says David Hurrion. Photos by Paul Debois

Reproduced from October 07 issue of Gardeners' World magazine. This month's issue on sale now. Subscribe now and save 30 per cent.

If you're planning a new lawn or replacing an existing one, now is an ideal time to put down turf or sow grass seed. There's still plenty of warmth in the soil, despite the poor summer, and a good chance of rain, both of which will encourage germination and rapid root growth, so your lawn will be well established before the cold winter weather arrives.

If you don't get the lawn done now, you'll have to wait until the spring. But, back to the big decision of whether to use turf or seed. Before taking the plunge, there are four key considerations:

Speed

Turf: This gives you an instant visual effect and, if properly laid, it can be walked on immediately. That said, avoid heavy use for the first few weeks while the roots grow into the soil and the grass knits each turf to its neighbour.

Seed: A lawn sown from seed will normally take two or three weeks to look green, and it'll be four to six weeks before you can walk on it.

Usage

Think about what your lawn will be used for. Do you need it to withstand heavy wear from children or dogs? Or perhaps you're after a fine lawn to look at. Also bear in mind whether your lawn will be in the shade.

Turf: You often have the choice of only one or two grades when you buy turf, so it can be hard to meet specific requirements - but it is very hard-wearing.

Seed: There's a wide variety of mixtures you can choose from, including ornamental, hardwearing, low maintenance and shade or drought tolerant.

Quality

The type of grass will dictate the quality of finish and the closeness of cut that you can achieve. Fine grasses will create the most attractive lawn.

Turf: This contains species such as coarse ryegrass. The texture is not so fine, but your lawn will withstand more wear and tear.

Seed: Grass seed is the only way to achieve a finely textured lawn.

Cost

Turf: Good-quality turf costs five or six times more than seed. Get someone to lay the turf for you and it's even more expensive.

Seed: It will cost you around 50 pence to cover one square metre of lawn with grass seed.

Still unsure?

Go for turf if:
You want instant results
Speed matters more than cost - turf will set you back around £3 per m²
You've got easy growing conditions, such as no deep shade
You want a lawn that is very hard-wearing

Go for seed if:
You want to save money - grass seed works out at around 50 pence per m²
You're happy to wait a few weeks for it to grow
You've got a specific growing condition, such as shade or damp
You're after a bowling green-perfect lawn

Preparation is everything

The method is the same for laying turf and sowing seed. Do this only in dry weather, when the soil is moist.

This is the coding that will hopefully put the following text and images in table lay-out - let me know if it looks weird!

1. Dig the area thoroughly to the depth of the spade to invert and bury weeds. Remove the roots of perennial weeds. 2. Break down large lumps of soil, then use the fork to level the area roughly. On heavy clay, add 1-2cm of coarse sand. 3. Shuffle back and forth across the surface, using your heels to firm the soil. Continue up and down the plot.
4. Rake the soil to fill hollows and break it down to a finer tilth. Get down on your hands and knees to check it's level. 5. Repeat step 3, shuffling at right angles to the original firming. This is key to producing a firm surface and a level lawn. 6. Rake again to fill in your heel marks. Hold the rake low to the ground to make it easier to create a level surface.

Laying turf

Make sure the groundwork is done before the turf arrives. In dry weather, water the prepared site a few hours before turfing. If you need help creating a straight edge when you start laying the turfs, use canes and a string line.

1. Lay the first strips of turf at one corner of the area. Position them carefully, as they will dictate the alignment of the rest of the lawn. 2. Lay each turf so it butts its neighbour as tightly as possible, as gaps are prone to drying out. Lay the strips in a brick pattern so the joins are staggered. 3. With two rows in place, tamp them level with the flat back of a shovel so the roots are in contact with the soil and to firm the joints between the turfs.
4. Step back from the lawn regularly to check the overall level. It's easier to correct as you go along, rather than wait until the whole lawn is down. 5. Using a spade or half-moon edging iron, cut the turf at the end of the row. Leave the lawn larger than the desired size. Once it's established, trim neatly to shape.

  • Aim to get the turf down the day it arrives. If this isn't possible, unroll the turf to prevent it turning yellow.

Sowing grass seed

Avoid the temptation to sow grass seed too thickly. Suggested rates vary according to the seed mixture, but 35g per square metre is common. Over-seeding puts too much demand on water, nutrients and light.

1. Weigh the recommended amount of seed to cover 1m2. It may not appear very much, but don't be tempted to use any more than this. 2. Scatter the seed with a swinging motion. Start by sowing thinly across each m². You'll soon be able to judge the density of seed by eye. 3. Use a spring-tined rake to mix the seed into the top of the soil to prevent it from drying out. Rake the area twice, the second time at right angles to the first.

  • So you can judge the rate of sowing, first practice scattering 35g of seed over a 1m² sheet of black plastic.

Aftercare to keep your grass in shape

  • Use a lawn roller six weeks after turfing or seeding. This will help to level the developing lawn and push any stones into the soil and out of the way of your lawnmower.
  • Cut turf and seeded lawns when the grass reaches 5cm. This will encourage dense clumps that will knit together to create the best lawn.
  • Little but often is the right approach to cutting new lawns in their first growing season. Leave grass at least 2.5cm long to prevent scalping and to encourage strong growth.
  • Keep the soil moist. Water turf at least three times a week for about a month to prevent the joints drying out. Water seeded lawns twice a week until germination occurs.
  • Don't use weedkillers or weed-and-feed products on any lawn less than a year old.

Where to buy

Turf

  • Rolawn 0845 604 6050, www.rolawn.co.uk (suppliers of the turf used in our step-by-steps)
  • Visit www.yell.com to find local turf suppliers

Lawn seed