New ways with chocolate

a bowl with chocolate inThink of cooking with chocolate and visions of luscious cakes and tortes, rich and creamy mousses or chunky, chewy brownies generally spring to mind. But our favourite culinary vice isn't limited to sweet creations

Adding chocolate to savoury dishes has a long tradition in different cultures around the world and can add a new dimension to chicken, lamb and even fish.

Chocolate goes particularly well with chillies so it's not surprising that many savoury chocolate recipes have their origins in Mexican cuisine.

The key to using chocolate in savoury dishes is moderation. It should be used to enhance the flavours, not overpower them.

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Mini chocolate chilli rolls

A spicy take on the French pain au chocolat
Makes 10

225g / 8 oz strong white flour
1 tspn salt
1 dried chilli, seeds removed and finely chopped
140-150ml / ¼ pint warm water
2 tspn dried yeast (or 1 tspn fast-action yeast)
1 tspn sugar
25g / 1 oz butter, melted and cooled
extra flour for kneading
oil for greasing
100g / 3 ½ oz good quality dark chocolate, broken into 10 chunks
1 tspn icing sugar and 1 tspn cocoa powder, for dusting

  1. Sieve the flour and salt into a large bowl. Add the dried yeast and sugar to the warm water and leave to stand for 5 minutes until it starts to react (it will go slightly foamy). If using fast-action yeast stir it directly in to the flour with the sugar. Stir the chilli into the flour.
  2. Add the yeast water to the flour (if using fast-action yeast just pour in the warm water) and the melted butter and mix with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together.
  3. Tip it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 12-15 minutes by hand (or 5-7 in an electric mixer with dough hook), adding more flour or water if necessary to make a smooth but not sticky dough.
  4. Oil a large bowl and place the dough inside, covering the top of the bowl with a piece of oiled cling film. Place in a warm place to rise; it should take about 1 hour.
  5. When the dough has risen to double its size, punch your fist into the dough to deflate it and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 1 minute.
  6. Divide the dough into 10 pieces and shape each one into a ball. Push a chunk of chocolate into the middle of each and pull and pinch the dough over to encase it inside, keeping a round shape with the seam on the bottom.
  7. Place the rolls, seam side down, on a lightly oiled baking sheet and cover with another piece of oiled cling film. Leave to prove (rise again) for another half hour or so. Preheat the oven to 200C / gas mark 6.
  8. Mix the icing sugar and cocoa powder together and use a sieve to lightly dust the tops of the rolls. Bake for 20 minutes until risen and golden. Place on a wire rack to cool.

Chicken and pinto bean mole

Mole (pronounced mo-lay) is a Mexican sauce with chocolate. Chicken thighs are ideal for this dish as they stand up well to long, slow cooking, but you could use drumsticks as well. Serve with warmed flour tortillas and guacamole piled onto Little Jem lettuces
Serves 4

2 onions, sliced
1-2 red or green chillies, deseeded and chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
8 chicken thighs
2 tbsp olive oil
1 x 400g tin tomatoes
1 x 400g tin pinto beans, drained
salt and pepper
50g / 1 ¾ oz good quality dark chocolate, broken into chunks

  1. Preheat the oven to 170C / gas mark 3. Heat the oil in a large oven proof casserole and brown the chicken thighs until well coloured. Remove and set aside.
  2. Fry the onion in the remaining oil until softened and golden, then add the garlic and chilli and fry for another minute.
  3. Stir in the tomatoes and beans, season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Swish out the tomato tin with about 100 mls of water and add to the pan. Stir in the chocolate until it melts then lay the chicken thighs in the sauce.
  4. Cover the casserole with a lid and cook in the oven for 1 hour.

Monkfish in chocolate mushroom sauce

Fish may seem an unlikely partner to chocolate but monkfish stands up well to this subtle chocolate sauce
Serves 4

650g / 1 lb 7 oz monkfish (2 tails, bone removed to make 4 large pieces)
1 large mild Spanish onion, finely chopped
75g / 2 ¾ oz butter
2 tspn flour
100ml / 3 ½ fl oz white wine
100ml / 3 ½ fl oz water
200g / 7 oz button mushrooms, thinly sliced
25g / 1 oz good quality dark chocolate, grated
salt and pepper

  1. Melt the butter in a large frying or saute pan and gently sweat the onions, covered, until very soft but not coloured. This may take up to 30 minutes over a very low heat.
  2. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute.
  3. Increase the heat, pour in the wine and bring to the boil. Pour in the water and bring to a simmer, then stir in the mushrooms.
  4. Add the chocolate and season with salt and pepper. Lay the fish in the sauce, lower the heat to a gentle simmer and cover. Cook for 10-12 minutes or until the fish is done.

Choc-lamb casserole

Chocolate, coffee and exotic spices aren't ingredients you would normally associate with lamb stew but blended and slow-cooked they make a luscious and rich sauce. Perfect served over creamy mashed potatoes
Serves 4

750g / 1lb 10oz lamb shoulder or leg, cut into 3cm / 1 ¼ inch cubes
50g / 1 ¾ oz flour
salt and pepper
3-4 tbsp olive oil
12 small button onions
25g / 1 oz butter
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
600ml / 1 pint good-quality lamb stock
200ml / 7 fl oz strong filter coffee
5-6 grates of freshly grated nutmeg
1 bay leaf
1 star anise
5cm / 2 inch piece of fresh vanilla pod or 4-5 drops vanilla essence
50g / 1 ¾ oz good quality dark chocolate, broken into chunks

  1. Preheat the oven to 170C / gas mark 3. Prepare the seasoned flour and toss in the lamb cubes until well coated.
  2. Heat the oil in a large, oven-proof casserole and fry the lamb in batches until well browned on all sides. Take care not to over crowd the pan. Remove the lamb to a bowl, adding a little more oil between batches if necessary.
  3. Boil the kettle and place the button onions in a bowl. Pour over the boiled water and leave for about one minute. Drain well and peel the onions, keeping them whole.
  4. Melt the butter in the casserole dish (unwashed) and fry the onions until they begin to colour. Add the garlic and the rest of the seasoned flour. It should be about 1 teaspoon. Stir and fry another minute.
  5. Pour in the stock and coffee, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the dish. Stir continuously and bring to the boil, then add the nutmeg, bay leaf, star anise and vanilla pod or essence.
  6. Return the lamb to the pan, cover and cook in the oven for 1 ½ hours.
  7. Add the chocolate to the lamb, stirring it through until it melts.

Mole poblano de guajolote (Turkey steaks in chocolate chilli sauce)

This classic Mexican dish calls for the use of lard and large chunks of turkey meat, plus a stock made with the carcass. Here is a simpler version, less authentic but just as good.
Serves 4

4 turkey breast steaks
1-2 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper
600ml good quality chicken stock
2 whole cloves
2 star anise
½ tspn ground cinnamon

For the mole sauce
50g / 2 oz flaked almonds
1 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
3 medium tomatoes
2 dried chillies
1 red or green fresh chilli
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
50g raisins
salt and pepper
25g good quality dark chocolate, broken into chunks
sesame seeds to garnish

  1. Heat the oil in a pan large enough to hold the turkey steaks, season them with salt and pepper and brown on one side until golden.
  2. Turn the steaks over and pour in the stock adding the cloves, star anise and cinnamon. Bring to a simmer, cover and gently poach the turkey for 20 minutes or until cooked through.
  3. Preheat the oven to 180C / gas mark 4. Spread the flaked almonds, sesame and coriander seeds on a baking sheet and toast for 5 minutes, keeping an eye on them as they can burn easily. Set aside to cool.
  4. Blanche the tomatoes in boiling water for 30-45 seconds, depending on ripeness, plunge into a bowl of cold water and peel off the skins. Halve and cut out the seeds. Chop roughly and put into the bowl of a food processor.
  5. Remove the seeds from the dried and fresh chillies, chop roughly and add to the food processor, along with the garlic, raisins and toasted almonds and seeds. Add salt and pepper and whiz the mixture until it forms a thick paste, adding 1-2 tablespoons of water for easier blending.
  6. Strain off the stock from the turkey and reserve; discard the star anise and cloves. Remove the steaks from the pan and keep warm.
  7. Add a little more oil to the pan and fry the chilli puree for 2-3 minutes. Add enough of the reserved stock to loosen the paste and make a sauce. Stir in the chocolate until it melts and return the turkey steaks to the sauce. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve.