This week, Meera dances in the street for carnival, enjoys rooftop barbeques and looks forward to a dip in the crystal clear waters of the Atlantic

The first week in Colonia flies by, ending on a high with the weekend's carnival festivities, a warm-up for the real deal in the Uruguayan capital Montevideo. We dance on Colonia's streets to candombe, an African-Uruguan drumming rhythm which hails back to the 18th century when African slaves were brought over. Another tradition is the murgas; harlequin-esque performers who dance, sing and act satirical sketches based on current affairs, a musical version of Have I Got News For You if you will. My Spanish may be semi-fluent but me no comprendo nada.

I leave Colonia with two new friends and we're bus-bound for the capital, located on the northern shore of the River Plate. The Ciudad Vieja hostel is perfectly situated off Plaza Matriz (also known as Plaza de la Constitucion) on the edge of the Ciudad Vieja (old port town) but not too close - the Ciudad Vieja is an atmospheric old place (and safe) by day, but, a little shady by night and best visited in a group or by taxi if you're planning on heading to its bars. The hostel also has a gorgeous rooftop where we enjoy asados (barbecues) and lots of dancing. It's a hard life at times.

Enjoying Montevideo
I like Montevideo instantly, but I admit it might not be everyone's cup of tea. It's crumbling and slightly shabby in parts, the beaches along its southern ramblas aren't stunning (but the sunsets are magnificent) and real meaty sights are thin on the ground. But it guards some real gems, among them the modern art Torres Garcia museum housing works by Uruguayan artist Joaquin Torres Garcia. The gallery is just off the main square, Plaza Independencia, whose centrepiece is an impressive statue of Jose Artigas, founder of Uruguayan independence, complete with mausoleum below. Another favourite is the Museo del Carnaval, which illustrates the history of Uruguay's carnival traditions - the costume room is a sight to see. The museum is right by the Mercado del Puerto (port market), once a meat market and now a hubbub of restaurants where meat sizzles on open grills. I meet a Uruguayan friend for lunch and we tuck into steak, melted provolone cheese and share a bottle of Medio Medio, a mercado speciality of still and sparkling wine that leaves me a little drowsy.

Montevideo is great for a spot of retail therapy. The markets along the pedestrianised Calle Sarandi and in Plaza Matriz sell everything from old coins and falling-apart books to hand-crafted gemstone jewellery and leather bags while the shops along the main drag, Calle 18 Julio, are packed with bargains. I snap up a gorgeous black linen beach dress for $5.

Great news
I also receive some excellent news that day. After an online chat with a friend where much of the talk centres around the quality of the steak and beer here, she is sold. She's leaving her baby and husband at home for a week and visiting me in the southern hemisphere, her first trip out of Europe and arriving two days before my birthday.

The final highlight is the two-day El Desfile de Llamadas (carnival parade) along Calle Isla de Flores in the southern barrios of Barrio Sur and Palermo where the combinations of costumes, crowds and candombe rhythms create an electric atmosphere. We stand on the sidelines to watch the action up close and personal, but you can buy seats and even balcony spots. Thankfully, I snap plenty of pics the first night as Friday's llamadas are a wash-out. I see my first Uruguayan rains and hombre, can it pour. It doesn't bode well for my next adventure - the quiet hippy fishing village and beautiful beach of Valizas on Uruguay's eastern Atlantic coast. But having seen the brown slush of the River Plate for two weeks, nothing, not even heavy rains, is going to stop me from swimming in the crystal clear waters of the Atlantic.