This week we join Meera Dattani as she climbs the Towers of Paine, explores the world's southernmost city and meets penguins up close
Chilean Patagonia. The words alone conjure up dramatic landscapes and legendary sights. We leave El Chalten in Argentina for the long journey across the border to the famous national park, Torres del Paine, (Towers of Paine), a 180,000-hectare UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, home to high peaks, guanaco (llama), condors and pumas. We pass Puerto Natales, a quirky laidback outdoorsy town and travel the final 112km northwest.
We're camping at Refugio Las Torres, a mountain lodge managed by adventure tourism company Fantástico Sur. Although Patagonia is renowned for experiencing four seasons in one day, we brave the elements - and communal showers. Showering at night with a head torch is hilarious if a little challenging. But it's beautiful sleeping under a star-filled sky and waking up to views of the three mountains (torres) that form the Paine massif.Starting to climb
The hike up to view these famous, steep granite needles (at 2250, 2460 and 2500 metres) begins well and we reach the Chilean lodge in about two hours. We trek past the fast-flowing brook and through shady woodland until we hit the beginning of the seemingly endless boulders which lead up to the Laguna (lake) at the foot of the Torres. The boulders go on forever - just when you think you can't be more than ten minutes from the top, 20 go by - and you're still not there. But when we reach our holy grail, the sweat, grime and tears are all worth it. The three Torres loom before us, high and mighty, and between us we snap what seems like a thousand photographs.
Day two's trek is somewhat easier - in comparison. We pass the surreal-looking Cuernos (horned peaks) with their two-tone rock formation and take the catamaran across Lago Pehoe to walk part of the trail leading to Glacier Grey. Our final viewpoint gives us a stunning view of this huge ice formation and the deep blue icebergs scattered across Lago Grey. We're lucky enough to witness two condors soaring above us as we lunch.
It's hard to top Torres del Paine, but something very special beckons. We embark on a 12-hour bus ride south crossing the Strait of Magellan to the Argentine island of Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire), down to gorgeously located Ushuaia, the world's southernmost city. Backed by mountains and facing the blue waters of the Beagle Channel (named after the 19th-century exploratory ship HMS Beagle, captained by Robert FitzRoy, accompanied by then amateur naturalist Charles Darwin), this is practically Antarctica - well, we're (only) 1200km away!
It's wind-down time now, but that still means adventure. On a scenic Beagle Channel cruise with a witty and informative guide, we pass sea lion and cormorant colonies, towering mountain ranges and enjoy sublime views of Ushuaia. We also stop on a former Yamana (Yahgan) settlement, an island once home to a nomadic tribe that lived along the Beagle Channel.
It's tough saying goodbye to Patagonia - and to the 12 people in my Intrepid Travel group, although I'm sure it's au revoir and not farewell. Of all my travels, Patagonia rates as one of the most magical and beautiful places I've had the good fortune to visit. Next time, I'm going further south - to Antarctica!
For now, it's back up to Buenos Aires and my last ten days. A spot of wine-tasting in Mendoza and horse-riding on a ranch perhaps?
The Patagonian Wilderness trek is hosted by Intrepid Travel who specialise in small group adventures throughout Europe, Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, Australasia and the Pacific. The writer is travelling through South America courtesy of www.ebookers.com a leading pan-European online travel agency.