The nutritional benefits of eating fish are well-known. It's high in protein, low in fat and many are rich with omega-3 oils. But a lot of our favourite fish are in danger from overfishing, so it's important to know which ones are good to eat
Tuna and cod have hit the headlines in the papers for all the wrong reasons. Both are in danger of extinction because of overfishing. So we should stop eating them, right? Not entirely, say the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), an organisation dedicated to sustainable fishing and the welfare of our seas. Some albacore tuna and cod are being fished responsibly, so are ok to eat. Look for the MSC's blue eco-label when buying or ordering in a restaurant to be sure it's the real deal.
Think before you buy
When buying fish, it's important to think about how it was caught. Trawling for those that live on the bottom can destroy huge areas of the sea bed, and gather up every living thing. Many of the animals caught don't even make it to the markets. Because of food fashions and the demand for certain types of fish, tonnes of dead and dying fish are just thrown back into the sea.
Buying farmed fish might seem like the obvious solution. But this is also fraught with difficulties as often it creates more ecological problems than it solves. Chemicals and antibiotics are needed to keep the captive fish healthy, and the food the fish eat are often wild caught. Without tides and water currents to help wash it away, the waste farmed fish produce can seriously damage the local marine environment.
So, what to eat, what to avoid? As a general rule, fish with the eco-labels are either fished sustainably or farmed in environmentally responsible ways. Look for the Marine Stewardship Council logo, or Soil Association logo for farmed organic fish. If you're not sure about the fish on the fishmonger's slab, ask how was it caught, whether it was farmed or wild and whether it's from sustainable stocks. Only buy fish that you know isn't under threat.
Ones to avoid
Whitebait - although delicious, whitebait are the young of several different species of fish, including herrings and sprats. By eating them in their immature form, we prevent them from breeding and spawning young of their own. This has a huge impact on the populations of these fish, with fewer and fewer reaching maturity and stocks declining. Avoid eating all types of young fish.
Cod - unless MSC-certified or organically farmed. Although still plentiful on supermarket shelves, cod is seriously endangered with populations in the North Sea reduced by over 90 per cent since the 1960s. Substitute pollack, pouting or coley in recipes for this, to give the dwindling numbers a chance to recover.
Bluefin tuna - while many of us seek out tins of tuna labelled 'dolphin-friendly', we're in danger of missing the point. All three species of Bluefin tuna are already critically endangered, so should not be eaten. Albacore and skipjack tuna still have healthy populations, so choose these instead.
Skate and rays - most of the skate we buy is in fact ray, but many skates and rays are critically endangered. Because of the way they are sold - just the wings with the skin removed - it's impossible to tell which species you're buying. Avoid eating them.
Wild salmon - we may be familiar with the remarkable life story of the salmon, how it returns from its epic journey from freshwater stream to open sea, then back to the very river in which it was spawned, the biggest threat this species faces is humans. Substitute organically farmed salmon instead.
What to eat
Pollack - from the same family as cod, this fish is usually overlooked. Its numbers are healthy, so use it as an alternative to its more popular sibling.
Mackerel - packed full of health-giving omega oils, mackerel is a great food fish. Its population is thriving, so it's a good fish to eat.
Grey mullet - although under-appreciated, grey mullet makes surprisingly good eating. It's also a good source of iodine, the lack of which is linked to academic underachievement.
Gurnard - fast becoming a restaurant favourite, gurnard is a meaty fish, that holds its shape well when cooked. Add it to fish soups and stews as an alternative to monkfish.
Coley - another member of the cod family, but one that has fallen from food favour. Its slightly grey flesh may put customers off, but once cooked, its flesh turns white and succulent. Use as a substitute for cod.
Sprats - full of healthy omega oils, sprats are plentiful and good to eat.
Fish recipes
Pollack with paprika chips
Potato salad with grilled mackerel and horseradish
Mackerel with 'Bois Boudran' sauce
Smoked mackerel pate
Find out more
The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) keeps up-to-date lists of which fish are good to eat at www.msc.org/cook-eat-enjoy/fish-to-eat.
For more information about the welfare of our seas and declining fish stocks, go to www.fishonline.org. They also have lists of which fish to eat and which to avoid.